This is the guy who climbed Widows Tears and wrote the kickass report on supertopo. He did have a rope, but climbed the route in one 70M epic pitch. I divided it into two pitches (lack of long enough rope and skill) :)
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe