ApproachA must for all movie fans. Approach the Fortress. After crossing the 'Iron Bridge" over the Red River
715 will turn east. After meeting 77 north, travel .2 miles up Ky 77 and park on the roadside. Cross the road and follow the path steeply up hill. Upon reaching the Fortress Wall, turn left passing American Crack, Blue Runner and past the turret, a small Pinnacle. 50 feet past the turret find a dihedral
Bed Time for Bonzo
Route DescriptionClimb the dihedral to a ledge Climb a small dihedral and traverse right under an overhang and follow a right-leaning crack. Hackworth says the right leaning crack may be a rude awakening to leaders tentative at this level. 80 feet.
The above was fromMartin Hackworth's Stones of Years
Bonzo Redux: (bolts added subsequent to mid 80's)
The first pitch heads up that dihedral with the ledge to a nice belay from bolts under a massive roof. P2 heads right through a 2nd class chimney to a steep corner. Up the corner, traverse right on a finger ledge, and then ascend the right-leaning fist crack (physical and psychological crux) to the thank-god-hold and the top. Rap from bolts in two stages.
Essential GearMedium Hexes, stoppers and friends and the invevitable small tricams. Choose your rappel carefully if you have a single rope-some overhangs are massive.
Miscellaneous InfoIf you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Final Pitch Photo
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