Belač-Zupan is a (the) typical V (UIAA).
FA in 1950 by Belač (Marjan Keršič) and France Zupan.
The Šite walls are 500 m tall, and our route is a long diagonal. The "demanding" part is the length and the orientation.

The amount of pitches may be a matter of choice (or discussion), as rope length is nowadays usually 60 m, and many of the original pitches are ca. 30 m long.

The original exit is somewhat out of use, due to the fragility of some rock formations. The right exit is recommended, first along a ledge (upper yellow line on the image).

Getting There

Please click the coords in the primary info! From Rateče (bus stop) follow the asfalted road (due S) towards the Planica ski jumps and further to a parking lot. Further along the Tamar valley (marked path, macadamized road) to the Tamar hut (ca. 6 km from Rateče). The Tamar hut is open all year long (tel: 00 386 (0)4 58 76 055, (0)41 44 88 30, or (0)41 44 88 31).
From the hut, follow the marked path for Jalovec. The view to the Tamar wall (Šite N) soon opens up left-hand.
Split off the path as convenient (scree) in order to get to the foot of the Pillar. Head for the right side (W) of the pillar's base.
Access to the lower terrace from the right (lower yellow line on the image). Start where a ramp diagonally heads up right-hand, under a line of overhangs. Ca. 1h 30.

Route Description

enlarge for annotations

> Pitch 1: III, shallow slabs, diagonally to the right (short pitch).
> Pitch 2: V, a set of steps, continuing to the right, exiting to a basin (start of the Zajeda /dihedral route straight up).
> Pitch 3: III, horizontally along the ledge to the left, till a book.
> Pitch 4: V, follow the book, exiting left, to a ledge. Follow the ledge, till a book.
> Pitch 5: V, follow the book. belay on the balcony.
> Pitch 6: V, traverse left to a large chimney/gully. Next up, exiting left-hand to a comfortable ledge.
> Pitch 7: V, up the crack in the slab, starting left-hand.
> Pitch 8: IV, around the outer edge and down in the gully.
> Pitch 9 and 10: V and IV, follow the gully, first sticking right hand, then up a chimney.
> Pitch 11: III, then V. Exit the gully left-hand, and continue up a slab, first keeping left, then back along ledges.
> Pitch 12: IV, then III. Diagonally to the left along what is becoming a long and wide ledge.
> Pitch 13, 14 and 15: III/II, follow the ledge till it narrows at the foot of a "tower".
> Pitch 16: V, manage up, around the tower, either to the left or to the right. Exit on a ledge.
> Pitch 17: traverse diagonally left-hand (III-IV) to the base of a dihedral.
> Pitch 18 and 19: IV-V, IV. Mainly follow the wide dihedral, then turning right into a gully/chimney.
> Pitch 20: III, lower angle slabs. The right exit splits along a ledge (II, recommended). The original continues straight (IV) to the start of a red chimney.
> Pitch 21: V- and III after the detail. Stick left hand. The ridge rock formations are unstable.
> Pitch 22 (and a half): III, then IV. Diagonally to the right. Manky terrain until the edge of the face.

Descent: see main page. The descent back to the Tamar hut (via the Jalovec couloir) is the most convenient (ca. 2h 30).

Essential Gear

The route is equiped with pitons and slings.
The usual reserve of various pins (long and standard blades, small profile, universal) should be carried, as well as a few medium (to medium-small) cams.
Enough longer slings, if trying to pull 60 m.

External Links

> Slovenske stene (Slovene walls), by Tine Mihelič and Rudi Zaman (in Slovenian). >Topos< by Aleš Dolenc.
> plezanje.net Šite page
> Tips for Safe Trips to the Mountains

Images