ApproachThere are two ways to approach the climbs in the Oak Creek Canyon / Solar Slab area:
FROM THE OAK CREEK CAYNON PARKING AREA
Start at the Oak Creek Canyon parking area located at the end of a spur road leading off the scenic loop road (mile XX.X). The approach is very straightforward. Just follow the obvious trail for about a mile from the parking area to the base of Solar Slab. Solar Slab is obvious from the parking area, so you can't get lost. When you get within a few hundred yards of the base, cut uphill on any of the many braided trails.
FROM THE OLD OAK CREEK CAMPGROUND
This is a good choice for those climbers who want to get an early start (the scenic loop road doesn't open until 6am). This approach is a little longer, but it is very straightforward. Begin at Oak Creek Campground which is 1.4 miles south on Nevada 159 from the exit of the loop road. Or, you can start at any of the nearby pullouts. Hike on Oak Creek Road (dirt, no cars) or on one of the many nearby trails to the base of Solar Slab. Solar Slab is clearly seen from the road, so you can't get lost. Hike for about 1.5 miles, and cut uphill on one of the many braided trails when you get within a few hundred yards of the base.
Route DescriptionBeulah's Book is not quite as popular as Johnny Vegas or Solar Slab Gully, but it gets a fair amount of weekend traffic. It's a terrific climb with a very interesting second pitch. It's possible (and highly recommended) to combine this route with Solar Slab for 1,500 ft of great climbing. The route is mostly in the sun (except for the chimneys), so plan accordingly.
Start about 75' to the left of Johnny Vegas at the base of a dihedral with a small oak tree growing out of its base.
Pitch 1 (5.6) Climb the dihedral (tree is out of bounds!), then head up and left onto a narrow face. Climb past a bolt on nice, positive edges. Step into the chimnney and stop at a good ledge. (140')
Pitch 2 (5.9-) You're now at the base of a flaring "bomb bay" chimney. Stem, wiggle, and slither your way up this short, but fun section (5.9-, bolt) up to the base of a beautiful layback corner. Cruise up the corner on 5.8+ rock and exit left at its top to reach a good ledge with an anchor. (130')
Pitch 3 (5.6) Trickier than it looks! Meander up the face with very little protection. There are good holds all over this face...you just have to look carefully. Eventually angle right to belay in some left-leaning cracks. (110')
Pitch 4 (5.3) Fly up easy rock to a large ledge with boulders. This pitch can be combined with the previous. (50')
If you're not going to continue up Solar Slab, you can rappel the route with two ropes. Or, you can rappel Solar Slap Gully with one rope. To reach Solar Slab Gully, you must first hike up class 2/3 rock to the large terrace that marks the start of Solar Slab, then head down the Gully.