DescriptionThe Bietschhorn 3934m is together with the Matterhorn and the Weisshorn one of the most beautiful mountain in Switzerland.The Bietschhorn is of unique beauty and dominance. All ascents to this mountain are long and demanding. The easiest ascent is over the west-ridge (Difficulty ZS (AD) / III). We climbed over the demanding north ridge (Difficulty S (D) / III-IV).
At two o'clock we are risen in the Baltschieder hut and around 2.45Uhr we started. Over the "Üssere Baltschieder glacier" we went to the Baltschiederjoch 3195m. Over a rock-flank we climbed to the point 3477m, where a steep and exposed firn- and ice ridge begins (~50grade). Over this firn- and ice ridge we came to the point 3706m. The firn- and ice part ends, now it begins a rock-ridge. A high alpine rock-ridge with UIAA climbing in the III-IV degree of difficulty, frequently one must climb there with crampon. This north ridge has two difficult towers (gendarmes), one of the tower has a climbing difficulty of IV-V (there are some bolt). If somebody is uncertain, you can much time lose on this ridge. It cannot secured everything and it must be climbed quickly, those route is long and arduous. After we reached the north summit of Bietschhorn and in few minutes the main summit of Bietschhorn 3934m, yeah, done!
We descend again over the north ridge. The descent is the same length as the ascent, and even more difficult. By the two towers we had rappeling.
Conclusion: The Bietschhorn north ridge is a demanding and arduous tour.
Written and climbed by Cyrill
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Baltschiederklause / Baltschieder hut 2783m: Link to the Baltschiederklause