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Bit By Bit
Route

Bit By Bit

 
Bit By Bit

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Object Title: Bit By Bit

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.7+ Run-out

Number of Pitches: 4

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Deb

Created/Edited: Jul 13, 2009 / Jul 13, 2009

Object ID: 529336

Hits: 893 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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Approach

Approach to base of climbs on the western face as mentioned on main Little Baldy page. Once out of the woods and near rock base, take care to not traverse along rock wall too far. Drop a bit lower and follow faint trail over downed trees and thick scratchy brush. Evidence of traffic provided by broken branches and skid marks in soft dirt under brush.

The Climb

The start of Bit By Bit is just right of Wigged Out, obvious line under great roof. Bit By Bit is 4 pitches of mainly face with some small mossy cracks on occasion; favorite placements are the only cracks that have been landscaped by previous climbers. The 5th pitch is a Class 4 walk to the top.

P1 - great face climbing with a small bulge (probably the crux) between bolts 2 and 3. We found, as many have, the topo in the guidebook “Sequoia Kings Canyon”, to be incorrect for this pitch. There are 5 bolts, not counting the rotten bolted anchor, and gear placement opportunity between bolts 4 and 5.

P2 - easy face with more opportunities to place gear in small dihedrals, no bolts.

P3 - nearly 4th class, belay meets with Wigged Out on nice ledge with great anchoring choices.

P4 - this pitch provides some options. Go left and look for one bolt on run-out face to right-facing dihedral, go straight up slab, or take left-facing dihedral to the right across stately ledge, then run out to right-facing dihedral approx 50’ from last gear opportunity.

P5 - Class 4 ramp to the top doesn’t really count as a pitch but not a great place to fall unroped.

Walk off following hiking trail but cut back into brush and woods onto faintly used trail back to base of all climbs. This about a 5 minute jaunt downhill with spectacular view of some of Little Baldy's hardest routes.

Gear

Quick draws, a few slings, and definitely small nuts and aliens. Some med-sized cams for anchors would be a good idea as well.
60m rope was perfect, as every pitch was about 165'.

Images

Base of Bit By BitP4 of Bit By Bit