Overview  Between Wyssi Frau and Blümislialphorn
The Blüemlisalp-Massif is located in the central Berner Oberland. The three major summits are Blümlisaphorn, Weisse (Wyssi) Frau, and Morgenhorn. The lesser summits of the Wilde Frau and Blümlisalp Rothorn are often included.
Most routes are on the snow and ice of the north side. The south side of the massif is not usually climbed because of the very poor rock.
The classic high alpine traverse of the three major peaks is one of the best in the Alps. The portion of the ridge between the Weisse (Wyssi) Frau and Blümlisalphorn has been described as of a higher standard and more demanding than the famous Rochefort Arete in the Mt. Blanc Massif or the Liskamm traverse in the Pennine Alps.
The traverse as well as the north faces of Blümlisalphorn and Weisse (Wyssi) Frau are included in BERNER OBERLAND Die 100 schönsten Touren by Hans Grossen with Gaston Rébuffat.
Routes OverviwThe main routes on the north side of the massive
Morgenhorn – Blümslisaphorn Traverse
MORGENHORN –
NW Ridge. This PD route starts at the Blümlisalphütte and ascends the Morgenhorn Glacier to the NW Ridge which is then climbed directly in about 3.5 hours from the hut.
 The plates on the normal route - Blümlisalphorn
WEISSE (WYSSI) FRAU –
Ridge from Morgenhorn- PD+ and takes one to two hours depending on conditions.
North Face – 300 m – ice to 55 degrees, two to three hours
Northwest Ridge – AD - steep snow and / or ice with perhaps a bit or rock at the top
BLÜMLISALPHORN –
Ridge from Weisse (Wyssi) Frau - AD - two to four hours depending on conditions.
North Face - 460 m – ice from 45 to 70 degrees – three to five hours.
Ascent of the North Face of the Bluemlisalphorn Apr.2002 --- Ulrich Prinz
NW Ridge – PD - Considered the normal route, and the most common descent route. The ridge is straight forward, but caution is advised on the down sloping limestone slabs near its base. These are very treacherous when snow covered and/or icy.
Getting ThereClimbs on the north side of the massif are approached from the Blümlisalp Hut which can be reached from either Griesalp or more commonly from Kandersteg. Huts & CampingHuts
| Blümlisalphut | | Altitude: | 2834 m | | GPS Location: | 625.560 / 151.030 (Swissgrid/CH1903) | | Tel. on Hut: | +33-676 14 37 | | Open: | Attended: End of June until approximately 15. Oktober
Winter-room is open in the off-season | | Approach: | Approach from the 2 nearby valleys is simple on good trails and you can simply follow the signs:
Kiental -> Griesalp -> Hut in 4½ hrs
Kandersteg -> Oeschinensee -> Hut in 4½ hrs
| | WebPages: | Bluemlisalp Hut
Kandersteg Tourism | Camping
There is a Campground in one of the starting towns: Camping Rendezvous in Kandersteg.
Although camping is not the typical way to stay overnight on the mountain, you can do it
if you behave nicely. Ideally you pitch the tent at dusk and pack it in at dawn, and call that
a bivouac. Mountain Conditions  Descending normal route - Blümlisalphorn
Basislager.ch: Log of attempts, including description of ice conditions (German !)
Books & MapsGuideBook:
SAC-Clubfuehrer Berner Alpen 2&
Maps: Swisstopo Swiss Maps :
- 1:50.000 - #264, Jungfrau
- 1:25.000 - #1248, Mürren
Summit Morgenhorn |
Images
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Alps - Western Part
