Black and Tan Wall, 5.7-5.14

Black and Tan

wall has 32 published routes (2007) varying from 5.7 to 5.14. This wall is not the most ideal in winter or summer. If you do attempt to climb on Black and Tan in the winter, you will want to climb before noon to enjoy any rays and of course early mornings this high up in the desert in winter can be pretty damn cold. However, there are three routes that make up the “Annex” that will get afternoon sun in the winter, they are 5.10a to 5.11b. The two 5.7 routes on Black and Tan seem really easy for the grade and can be climbed in gloves. The rock is extremely sticky and a welcome contrast to the sandstone associated with nearby Snow Canyon State Park. A ton of project work is still being pursued on Black and Tan, particularly the long undercut portion at the base of the wall.
Woodbury Road Crags, Woodbury Desert Study Area, Joshua Tree Unit, BLM Utah, February 1, 2007