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Black Elk, IV, 5.11- Climber's Log

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Dow WilliamsBlack Elk  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2014

Dow Williams

With Steph who was a fantastic partner for the entire trip. Great 4 route trip via 4 nights...can't get anymore efficient than that in the backcountry. No doubt Black Elk was our featured climb. I have seen at least one posting of another partner of mine trying to sand bag the route...even when I have climbed with same over the past month and he could not handle stiff 5.9 leads in the Sierra's? Led the route, the crux pitch needs 4- 4's to get it comfortably even for someone who leads the grade and I climb a lot of off-width. I only took 2 and thus split the pitch up. If I had paid attention that it was Charlie's route (with Lowe) before I left the trail head I would have taken more 4's for sure. Someone said leave the small gear at home, that is bs as well...a standard rack (besides the 4's) is needed for the route. We only combined the last two pitches. Was a relatively fast day for a supposed grade IV, this is not a huge wall (1000'). The meadows below with running water make for an outstanding campsite.
Posted Aug 23, 2014 10:42 am

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