Indecision Peak > Black Magic, 5.8, 4 Pitches > Climber's Log
Indecision Peak > Black Magic, 5.8, 4 Pitches > Climber's Log|
|
|
| Shane Rathbun | Sandstone  Date Climbed: Oct 29, 2010 | |
| My first time climbing on sandstone. Great rock quality. The 3rd pitch crux is one move, but there are a number of ways to pull it off. | |
| Posted Dec 6, 2010 3:17 pm | ||
| SKI | Very good first pitch Date Climbed: Oct 29, 2010 | |
| Had to think on the third pitch crux move. First pitch was really good and sustained! I didnt think that the second pitch was run out at all. Plenty of cracks in the face for small nuts. Had to re-do the first pitch after a finger cam got placed a little too high for the follower. | |
| Posted Nov 1, 2010 11:51 pm | ||
| sergio | good route Date Climbed: Mar 28, 2010 | |
| Better than Lotta Balls, Dow's climber's log pretty much summarize it. The 5.6 is a bit runout and there are different cracks to the next belay stance that you can follow, I picked the one on the left which had almost no pro. The belay at the top of pitch 1 has only one bolt but there is a nice crack next to it for pro. Overall, another good day in RR. | |
| Posted Mar 29, 2010 1:24 am | ||
| fossana | quiet dec day Date Climbed: Dec 19, 2009 | |
| Expecting a crowd but we had the wall to ourselves on this chilly Dec day. First pitch was great; the rest was so so. Got to listen to some drunk assholes trundle rocks further up the canyon. | |
| Posted Dec 21, 2009 3:21 pm | ||
| PocketsOfBlue | Sweet Date Climbed: Nov 13, 2009 | |
| Great RR intro route with Brian D. Unfortunately I got stuck w/ even pitches. Probably why I enjoyed Lotta Balls more! | |
| Posted Nov 16, 2009 6:54 pm | ||
| Dow Williams | Black Magic Date Climbed: Apr 12, 2008 | |
| Much more entertaining than Lotta Balls I thought. We did them back to back. Black Magic has a fantastic 1st and 3rd pitch. The 2nd pitch is long and sustained at 5.6 with hard to place pro at times. That leader needs a little experience if you are switching out. Can run that 3rd pitch out enough to solo the rest. I love the 1st and 3rd pitch. Better route in my opinon than Lotta Balls. Nice views of Mt. Wilson. | |
| Posted Apr 14, 2008 5:21 pm | ||
|
