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Black Peak Climber's Log

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dan-oNE Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2015


Fun route
Posted Aug 11, 2015 11:27 pm

tcingrumSouth ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2015


Scenic approach hike and some of the best N Cascades views ever.
Some good scrambling too.
Posted Jul 22, 2015 9:16 pm

kevinsaBlack Peak  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2015


Great area - should have done this one a long time ago. Went with light day packs and really flew up it - 3hrs 30min up, 2hrs 40min down. Snow is now completely melted off the route - you can leave your ice axe at home for the rest of the 2015 season.
Posted Jul 19, 2015 11:30 am

Josh LewisHot day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2015

Josh Lewis

Drank 5 liters of water and pretty much sweated it all out. I encountered a section that I wished I had my ice axe for. Crampons however were not needed.
Posted Jul 3, 2015 2:03 pm

triyodaI found $5  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2014


Most interesting thing on the way to the summit was finding $14 on the ground. I also found a wallet lying around which I turned into the NPS rangers.
Posted Sep 4, 2014 12:11 am

Josh LewisRe: I found $5

Josh Lewis

My buddy found $6 a few days ago. I guess you get paid to climb this peak.
Posted Jul 3, 2015 2:01 pm

aarondrayBlack Peak, Washington Pass, Conditions
I am planning on attempting the Northeast Ridge of Black Peak near Washington Pass in mid-September with a partner. We will be traveling from out of state and would appreciate any information about the conditions from anyone who has been up there recently. In particular, how much snow is left on the approach to the ridge? How icy is it? Are crampons and/or an axe recommended on the snowfield? We are trying to decide between taking an axe and crampons, just crampons, just microspikes, or just boots. Also, would you recommend a 50 meter or 60 meter rope? We plan on simulclimbing most of the ridge but potentially pitching out the 5th class sections. Any advice on conditions would be appreciated. Thanks!
Posted Sep 2, 2014 8:51 am

bbS route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2014
s route
Posted Aug 11, 2014 7:05 pm

TimmyCNot today, thank you.
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2014


Trail up to Heather Pass was mostly snow-free; Heather Pass is still covered. Put on our gaiters to cross down the slope toward Lewis Lake; put on crampons as the snow got softer and more slippery.

At the outlet of Lewis Lake, a huge rock avalanche cascaded down from our left (Lewis Peak? The big ledgy chunk.) and directly in front of us. If we'd been five minutes faster, we would have been in the middle of it. HUGE. Biggest rockfall I've ever witnessed. Spooked, we started to decide about whether to turn back or not. Then more rock fell. And more. Given that we'd have to cross that shooting gallery again the next day, we hastily retreated while rock continued to fall behind us. Uff-da. Will return when conditions are more stable.
Posted Jul 9, 2014 11:33 am

RomaKSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 7, 2012


Beautiful trip, quite mellow. Incredible larches! Scramble is class 2 for the most part. Some annoying scree. Easiest way to get to the very summit is to keep traversing east (right) until you get to just above the notch connecting the NE ridge to the summit block. A few simple class 3 moves and you're there!
Posted Feb 27, 2013 8:19 pm

cafzalSouth Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2012


Backpacked in with friends on a two night trip. Climbed Black Peak via the South Ridge on the second day. Beautiful views!
Posted Sep 23, 2012 9:43 pm

BKWSmokey South Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2012


Forest fires made for interesting views on this day hike. Below the summit we followed the cairns on the ledge to a very exposed class 4 section. I believe this is the standard way up based on accounts and pictures I've seen. The first move seemed very awkward to me so we decided we weren't in the mood. We headed to the west end of the summit "fin" where there are some bivy spots. From here a cleft in the rock was visible on the south side of the fin. I decided to try it out and found it was a simple 3rd class scramble that gained the top of the fin 10-15 yards west of the summit with only moderate exposure. From here it was a walk to the highest point with huge exposure on both sides.
Posted Sep 23, 2012 5:56 pm

Matt LemkeDay hike South Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2012

Matt Lemke

Great weather...the route was full of talus though. Only the last 20 feet was fun. 6 Hours RT.
Views of Goode are top notch!
Posted Sep 14, 2012 11:07 pm

ericwillhiteWing Lake Camping  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2012


Rested at Wing Lake from a climb elsewhere the day before, headed up Black in the morning. Trip Report & Map
Posted Aug 15, 2012 11:32 pm

fjes6Nice  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2012


This was a fun climb, a very straight foreward route, and an enjoyable talus and scree scramble. Made the ascent in 9 hours car to car.
Posted Jul 20, 2012 11:54 am

ClimberCrabsSecond time's the charm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2009


Climbed this one on the second go round in September. The route is straightforward on the south side, only scary bit was just below the summit with a few exposed moves and were probably Class 4. Such an amazing view from the summit and camping at Wing Lake is still one of my favorite spots. I'd recommend a fall ascent to really appreciate the colors at the lake.
Posted Jul 17, 2012 8:14 pm

belowfellowfun, easy scramble  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2011


great weather day
Posted Feb 10, 2012 5:33 pm

cdcscramblerSouth Slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2009


great climb. doing it in the fall is the best, all the larch trees are gold. beautiful sunny day. can easily be done in 1 day
Posted Feb 8, 2012 10:28 am

gimpilatorStandard  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2011


9.5 hours round-trip. Much easier than I expected but a nice peak all the same. Not much scrambling required to reach the summit. This is my 20th Bulger peak.

Posted Sep 24, 2011 9:53 pm

wildstarGreat  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2011


Great trip and a wonderful climb except for being stalked by a predatory mountain goat.
Posted Aug 12, 2011 3:03 pm

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