naura - Jul 21, 2020 11:09 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2020
First North Cascades summit
Summited despite feeling weak and a couple bad equipment choices. Made good time to Heather Pass, then a descending traverse on snow for which the ice axe was invaluable. Waterproof shoes would have been better than my trail runners. Snow facilitated the ascent up what would otherwise have been annoying scree and boulders to the ridge. From there it was easy class 2 almost all the way to the summit. I don't think we went around the west side and I didn't see anything on our path that was more than mild class 3 for one or two moves. Maybe there are many routes on the final summit block? Glissading on the descent was great, but the ascending traverse of the snowfield to get to Heather Pass was tiring. Chill couple of miles on trail to finish it out, followed by a well deserved meal and a beer.
Jowzynkyn - Aug 20, 2019 5:50 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2019
Accordion Man
Rainy Pass Trailhead to Lake Ann ~50 min, to Heather Pass ~1 hour. Lewis Lake in 90 minutes, Wing Lake in 2 and a half hours from trailhead. Summited from South Ridge route, mostly Class 3 with some 4 and low 5 moves near the summit block, really not too bad, I think 90% of people could complete this one if they put the effort in. Beautiful day, high 70s and sunny, played accordion on the peak for a half hour and met a cool climber named Steve. 10 hours total time round trip trailhead to summit
Camped at wing lake. Got snowed out in the AM with snow sticking to the summit block. Sun came out so we waited for an afternoon summit scramble. beautiful area and a classic climb
kronshage3 - Jul 9, 2018 7:31 am Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2018
Via South Ridge
One of my favorite mountains. All blue skies today with no wind. Beyond Heather Pass the route is mostly covered in snow up until the saddle. Snow was soft and had a decent amount of steps already in it. I just wore my waterproof running shoes and brought an ice axe. Traction and/or mountaineering boots would be useful before the sun hits the snow (basically before sunrise on this south facing slope). Scramble is basically completely dry. The final scramble to the summit, in my opinion, is slightly more than class 3. It is pretty exposed. Incredible views from the top. Enjoy the glissade down. Did Maple Pass Loop after.
Phenomenal! Just a spectacular place. I took my time to really enjoy this special area. Simply beautiful scenery. South Ridge was class 2 if you follow the cairns but class 3+ is available if desired just look for it. Summit block is class 3+ I'd say. Plenty of snow left, axe was very useful but didn't need traction. Trip report here.
rtgomez90 - May 21, 2017 4:47 pm Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2015
Another climb with Jason. Fine weather, a full moon, and only one giant, terrifying rock dislodged in the gully. Luckily I was close behind at that point and could get out of the way. The view of Goode and Logan from the summit was awesome.
Tnarg - Aug 29, 2016 2:52 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2016
S Ridge
Great views! Probably the most rotten, crumbling mountain I've been on! I turned around right below the last pitch to the summit. The guide says it's Class 3, but I'd say it's a solid 4 in my book. Then again I met a guy at the trailhead who was raving about how it is barely class 3. I guess ratings are pretty subjective. I'm wishing I'd tried from the west end of the summit rock, sounds like there is a better, less exposed route there. On the way down I saw a poor guy getting belayed down the gravel chute from the South Col. Man, that thing is nasty!!
2016-07-21 Via NE Ridge with Sam and Mckenzie (Solo)
Jake Robinson - Jul 24, 2016 4:58 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2016
S Ridge
Mellow, quick climb. This mountain is pretty loose, we saw/heard rocks falling off all day. I brought an ice axe and crampons and ended up needing neither, although I was happy to have my helmet.
dan-o - Aug 11, 2015 11:27 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2015
Scenic approach hike and some of the best N Cascades views ever.
Some good scrambling too.
kevinsa - Jul 19, 2015 11:30 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2015
Black Peak
Great area - should have done this one a long time ago. Went with light day packs and really flew up it - 3hrs 30min up, 2hrs 40min down. Snow is now completely melted off the route - you can leave your ice axe at home for the rest of the 2015 season.
Josh Lewis - Jul 3, 2015 2:03 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2015
Hot day
Drank 5 liters of water and pretty much sweated it all out. I encountered a section that I wished I had my ice axe for. Crampons however were not needed.
triyoda - Sep 4, 2014 12:11 am Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2014
I found $5
Most interesting thing on the way to the summit was finding $14 on the ground. I also found a wallet lying around which I turned into the NPS rangers.
I am planning on attempting the Northeast Ridge of Black Peak near Washington Pass in mid-September with a partner. We will be traveling from out of state and would appreciate any information about the conditions from anyone who has been up there recently. In particular, how much snow is left on the approach to the ridge? How icy is it? Are crampons and/or an axe recommended on the snowfield? We are trying to decide between taking an axe and crampons, just crampons, just microspikes, or just boots. Also, would you recommend a 50 meter or 60 meter rope? We plan on simulclimbing most of the ridge but potentially pitching out the 5th class sections. Any advice on conditions would be appreciated. Thanks!
bb - Aug 11, 2014 7:05 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2014
S route
s route
TimmyC - Jul 9, 2014 11:33 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2014
Not today, thank you.
Trail up to Heather Pass was mostly snow-free; Heather Pass is still covered. Put on our gaiters to cross down the slope toward Lewis Lake; put on crampons as the snow got softer and more slippery.
At the outlet of Lewis Lake, a huge rock avalanche cascaded down from our left (Lewis Peak? The big ledgy chunk.) and directly in front of us. If we'd been five minutes faster, we would have been in the middle of it. HUGE. Biggest rockfall I've ever witnessed. Spooked, we started to decide about whether to turn back or not. Then more rock fell. And more. Given that we'd have to cross that shooting gallery again the next day, we hastily retreated while rock continued to fall behind us. Uff-da. Will return when conditions are more stable.
naura - Jul 21, 2020 11:09 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2020
First North Cascades summitSummited despite feeling weak and a couple bad equipment choices. Made good time to Heather Pass, then a descending traverse on snow for which the ice axe was invaluable. Waterproof shoes would have been better than my trail runners. Snow facilitated the ascent up what would otherwise have been annoying scree and boulders to the ridge. From there it was easy class 2 almost all the way to the summit. I don't think we went around the west side and I didn't see anything on our path that was more than mild class 3 for one or two moves. Maybe there are many routes on the final summit block? Glissading on the descent was great, but the ascending traverse of the snowfield to get to Heather Pass was tiring. Chill couple of miles on trail to finish it out, followed by a well deserved meal and a beer.
Jowzynkyn - Aug 20, 2019 5:50 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2019
Accordion ManRainy Pass Trailhead to Lake Ann ~50 min, to Heather Pass ~1 hour. Lewis Lake in 90 minutes, Wing Lake in 2 and a half hours from trailhead. Summited from South Ridge route, mostly Class 3 with some 4 and low 5 moves near the summit block, really not too bad, I think 90% of people could complete this one if they put the effort in. Beautiful day, high 70s and sunny, played accordion on the peak for a half hour and met a cool climber named Steve. 10 hours total time round trip trailhead to summit
beaudaddy85 - Jul 27, 2018 2:09 pm Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2016
Dumped SnowCamped at wing lake. Got snowed out in the AM with snow sticking to the summit block. Sun came out so we waited for an afternoon summit scramble. beautiful area and a classic climb
kronshage3 - Jul 9, 2018 7:31 am Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2018
Via South RidgeOne of my favorite mountains. All blue skies today with no wind. Beyond Heather Pass the route is mostly covered in snow up until the saddle. Snow was soft and had a decent amount of steps already in it. I just wore my waterproof running shoes and brought an ice axe. Traction and/or mountaineering boots would be useful before the sun hits the snow (basically before sunrise on this south facing slope). Scramble is basically completely dry. The final scramble to the summit, in my opinion, is slightly more than class 3. It is pretty exposed. Incredible views from the top. Enjoy the glissade down. Did Maple Pass Loop after.
chandlerhaberlack - Aug 17, 2017 4:03 am
once you go black...saw more smoke to the north from all the forest fires
awilsondc - Jul 13, 2017 6:15 pm Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2017
South RidgePhenomenal! Just a spectacular place. I took my time to really enjoy this special area. Simply beautiful scenery. South Ridge was class 2 if you follow the cairns but class 3+ is available if desired just look for it. Summit block is class 3+ I'd say. Plenty of snow left, axe was very useful but didn't need traction. Trip report here.
rtgomez90 - May 21, 2017 4:47 pm Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2015
BlackLots of simul-climbing on the ridge with Andrew
ZakG - Apr 26, 2017 8:13 pm Date Climbed: Sep 29, 1996
A Good TimeAnother climb with Jason. Fine weather, a full moon, and only one giant, terrifying rock dislodged in the gully. Luckily I was close behind at that point and could get out of the way. The view of Goode and Logan from the summit was awesome.
Tnarg - Aug 29, 2016 2:52 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2016
S RidgeGreat views! Probably the most rotten, crumbling mountain I've been on! I turned around right below the last pitch to the summit. The guide says it's Class 3, but I'd say it's a solid 4 in my book. Then again I met a guy at the trailhead who was raving about how it is barely class 3. I guess ratings are pretty subjective. I'm wishing I'd tried from the west end of the summit rock, sounds like there is a better, less exposed route there. On the way down I saw a poor guy getting belayed down the gravel chute from the South Col. Man, that thing is nasty!!
Mooner - Aug 20, 2016 3:43 pm
Up I go2016-07-21 Via NE Ridge with Sam and Mckenzie (Solo)
Jake Robinson - Jul 24, 2016 4:58 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2016
S RidgeMellow, quick climb. This mountain is pretty loose, we saw/heard rocks falling off all day. I brought an ice axe and crampons and ended up needing neither, although I was happy to have my helmet.
dan-o - Aug 11, 2015 11:27 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2015
NE RidgeFun route
tcingrum - Jul 22, 2015 9:16 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2015
South ridgeScenic approach hike and some of the best N Cascades views ever.
Some good scrambling too.
kevinsa - Jul 19, 2015 11:30 am Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2015
Black PeakGreat area - should have done this one a long time ago. Went with light day packs and really flew up it - 3hrs 30min up, 2hrs 40min down. Snow is now completely melted off the route - you can leave your ice axe at home for the rest of the 2015 season.
Josh Lewis - Jul 3, 2015 2:03 pm Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2015
Hot dayDrank 5 liters of water and pretty much sweated it all out. I encountered a section that I wished I had my ice axe for. Crampons however were not needed.
triyoda - Sep 4, 2014 12:11 am Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2014
I found $5Most interesting thing on the way to the summit was finding $14 on the ground. I also found a wallet lying around which I turned into the NPS rangers.
Josh Lewis - Jul 3, 2015 2:01 pm
Re: I found $5My buddy found $6 a few days ago. I guess you get paid to climb this peak.
aarondray - Sep 2, 2014 8:51 am
Black Peak, Washington Pass, ConditionsI am planning on attempting the Northeast Ridge of Black Peak near Washington Pass in mid-September with a partner. We will be traveling from out of state and would appreciate any information about the conditions from anyone who has been up there recently. In particular, how much snow is left on the approach to the ridge? How icy is it? Are crampons and/or an axe recommended on the snowfield? We are trying to decide between taking an axe and crampons, just crampons, just microspikes, or just boots. Also, would you recommend a 50 meter or 60 meter rope? We plan on simulclimbing most of the ridge but potentially pitching out the 5th class sections. Any advice on conditions would be appreciated. Thanks!
bb - Aug 11, 2014 7:05 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2014
S routes route
TimmyC - Jul 9, 2014 11:33 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2014
Not today, thank you.Trail up to Heather Pass was mostly snow-free; Heather Pass is still covered. Put on our gaiters to cross down the slope toward Lewis Lake; put on crampons as the snow got softer and more slippery.
At the outlet of Lewis Lake, a huge rock avalanche cascaded down from our left (Lewis Peak? The big ledgy chunk.) and directly in front of us. If we'd been five minutes faster, we would have been in the middle of it. HUGE. Biggest rockfall I've ever witnessed. Spooked, we started to decide about whether to turn back or not. Then more rock fell. And more. Given that we'd have to cross that shooting gallery again the next day, we hastily retreated while rock continued to fall behind us. Uff-da. Will return when conditions are more stable.