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scot'teryxRoute Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: September 9, 2002  Sucess!


Woke up at 330am, left the TH at 5am (got 15 minutes up the trail and I forgot my sunglasses)

weather was iffy, and we did not see the top of black until later that day

Once at wing lake we headed for the NE ridge and walked the glacier and then 4th class rock to the ridge

The 1st part of the route was covered in snow and ice, and then the last mid 5th class pitches said they were on the north side, and that was 800 feet higher so we assumed it would be snow and ice covered as well. We took the option of backing off the route and climbing it next spring/summer.

Then we thought, hey, let's climb the south gully walk up route!

so we went back down to the lake, traversed over towards the route and up to the col.

From there it is simple class 2/3 up to the last move below the summit which is class 4 and kind of exposed.

The summit was gained and we hung out for half an hour as the clouds started to break up and reveal some summits close by like Goode, Buckner, Logan, Forbidden, etc.

The rest of the day was clear and blue skies. The way back was not fun, losing 500 feet, and then gaining 500 feet to heather pass.

Made it in 12 hours car to car after doing 1.5 routes on Black Mountain
Posted Sep 11, 2002 2:19 pm

EasyPeaksRoute Climbed: South Slope Date Climbed: September 1994  Sucess!


"The perfect alpine scrambler's peak" is right! I would give this mountain a tie with Mt. Daniel for best scramble in the Cascades! I climbed it with a partner in 94, as a very long day trip. I have always planned on going back to do it as a 2 day trip with a camp at Wing Lake.
Posted Apr 16, 2002 6:44 pm

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