OverviewThis is a great rock route that goes straight up the imposing North face of Devil's Castle. It has been retro-bolted by the first ascent party, and is now mostly bolt protected, and has bolted belay stations, but a light rack is still needed to avoid a few big run-outs. The route follows the Black water streak on the face. It's got an adventurous feel to it, at least for the Wasatch, even though it has bolted belays and mostly bolts for protection.
Getting ThereFrom the Albion basin lot, just head towards the base of the North face of the Castle, scrambing up the talus/boulder field. You can hopefully find the route pretty easily because the bottom three pitches follow a dark water stain on the face. You should be able to see the first bolt from the bottom of the climb. Some of the bolt hangers and belay anchors are a little unusual, but they seem bomber.
Route DescriptionPitch 1 - bolt protected, 5.10a, 120 feet
Pitch 2 - crux pitch, 5.10b, around 100 feet
Pitch 3 - This is off to the right a bit of the 2nd pitch, follow a ledge right to find the chain anchors. They're the second set on the ledge. About 5.8
Pitch 4 - you should now be at the class 3 section in the middle of the cliff. Routefind more or less straight up, looking for a bolted belay station around where the rock goes back to fifth class.
Pitch 5 - This is a pitch of exciting climbing with a 5.8 crux that required some gear placements to protect reasonably well interspersed with more bolts. Pass the set of chain anchors after the initial easy section, use them for rappeling on the way down, no need to break up the pitch.
You'll be on the large ledge that cuts across the face near the top. There is a fixed line leading you 50 feet to the right to the start of the last pitch.
Last Pitch - More steep bolt protected climbing puts you on the summit ridge. 5.9/5.10-.
Surprisingly, the whole thing can be descended with single rope rappels, thanks to the plentiful anchors. Rockfall when pulling the rappel ropes can be an issue however, and a walk-off is possible, possibly preferable.
The rock quality on this route is pretty good, but I wouldn't want to start on this route if there was a party above me. Also, scope the large rockfield in the middle of the route for mountain goats, they can create dangerous rockfall onto the first three pitches.
Essential GearStandard rock-climbing gear - lots of quickdraws, some longer slings, and a light rack, with at least one hand-sized cam recommended.
Also a helmet is mandatory on this route.