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Black Velvet Peak Climber's Log

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rpcRoute Climbed: Multiple Date Climbed: Multiple

rpc

Prince Of Darkness Thanksgiving Wknd, 2009. Very fun route! Not as monotonous as some online reports suggested IMHO. We had a great time.

The Gobbler March 13, 2009. I led the even pitch; Shirley did 1 & 3. Following P3, I thought it was as hard as one of the classic Smith 10b faces... Another gem in a chestful of treasures that BV wall is yessir! TR here.

Dream Of Wild Turkeys Feb. 21 2009. Swapped leads with Shirley. Really VERY enjoyable climbing! Canyon was empty all day...well, 'cept for 2 dudes doing major route cleaning (FA??) upcanyon from Epi. Cloudy February day but windless. TR here.

Sour Mash Nov. 2007. Swapped leads with Shirley. Struggled (hung & cried...no kidding-real f..ing tears!) a lot on my 10a pitch (#6 per Supertopo) - I need to climb more faces. Shirley led our favorite pitch of the route (#4 per ST) - great 5.9 face/crack.

Overhanging Hangover Nov. 2007. Think this was the best "short" route we've done in RR (better than 1st 4P's of Dark Shadows IMHO). Again, Shirley led the 1st (crux IMHO) pitch. GREAT mix of face & crack climbing.

Wholesome Fullback Nov. 2007. Sweet short route & I was thankful that Shirley led the first (crux) pitch. Gave me a hard time even on TR (read "I fell"). P2 was easy but fun.

Misunderstanding Jan. 2007. Sweet short route. Very nice. Sneaked it in one evening after Shirley's conference.

Epinephrine May 29, 2005. Cool route. Quite long. "Exposure feel" less than on Crimson Chrysalis IMHO.

Refried Brains (4 pitch "version"), May 27, 2005. Cool route w. hard (for the grade IMHO) crux near top of P3. Some shaky bolts on P4 but good enough.

Epinephrine (attempt), May 22, 2005. Just didn't work out. Bailed atop pitch 4.

Sand Felipe, May 21, 2005. Damn....someone went postal with the drill on this one!!!

Frogland, March 13, 2004. My wife and I climbed this fun route on a warm, mid-March day. The route is easy for a 5.8 - the book (T. Swain) rating of 5.8- is probably more appropriate than the Supertopo rating of 5.8. Lots of fun. Nice, easy descent. Pitch 5 (chockstone pitch) was the highlight of the climb; P2 lieback was also enjoyable.
Posted Jun 3, 2005 7:11 pm

DesertAdventuresRoute Climbed: Hiked in. Date Climbed: 4-6-5  Sucess!
A beautiful but WINDY day. I showed a few of the Wednesday Buffet Boys the way to the peak. They chose to stay at ridge instead of hiking down to peak. Register is currently missing and cairn was knocked down.
Posted Apr 18, 2005 11:30 am

M and N DenyerRoute Climbed: Frogland Date Climbed: April 8, 2005  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 8, 2005

M and N Denyer

We climbed this enjoyable climb on a beautiful sunny day (with intermittent wind gusts). The wind made the stemming chockstone pitch interesting. Of note, the bolts at the anchor stances have been removed. (The three bolts on pitch one are still there though.) Also, Mark set up a belay at the top of pitch four in the notch just above the roof. This allowed for the chockstone pitch to be down with no rope drag. Had a relaxing lunch at the summit while watching/listening to a couple practice setting up what looked like a bivy ledge part way up Prince of Darkness. Nice and easy straightforward walk-off descent. All in all, a wonderful climb.
Posted Apr 13, 2005 11:20 am

cp0915Route Climbed: Black Velvet Canyon Date Climbed: Dec 24, 2004 & Nov 19, 2005  Sucess!

cp0915

Dec 24, 2004 - Solo'd this nice class 4 route. Cool hidden tunnel near the summit. Seemed like a rather long route but the roundtrip was only 5 hours.



Nov 19, 2005 - After doing The Monument & Hidden Peak with Matthew, we headed over and tagged this one.
Posted Dec 25, 2004 12:57 pm

poorboy44Route Climbed: Epinephrine Date Climbed: 2001  Sucess!

poorboy44

I think it was in November. It was really cold! With a bit of simuling you can do it in 12 pitches.
Posted Nov 2, 2004 5:45 pm

ShaaseRoute Climbed: Prince of Darness / Frogland Date Climbed: Fall 1998  Sucess!

Shaase

Two very interesting routes with diverse differences. Very enjoyable days
Posted Jun 22, 2004 4:15 pm

Eric TiptonRoute Climbed: "Epinephrine" V 5.9 Date Climbed: April, 2002  Sucess!
Dave Honeywell and I climbed this classic Red Rocks route on a cold spring weekend. The weather never did turn nasty but we had the entire Black Velvet canyon to ourselves and the sky was clear by noon. What a classic route, it has some of the finest chimney pitches I've ever done. We climbed the route in 12 pitches using a 60 meter rope. This route goes to the top! Walked out in the dark.
Posted Jan 24, 2003 11:54 pm

JoshRoute Climbed: Epinephrine (5.9, IV/V) Date Climbed: Lots  Sucess!

Josh

Epinephrine is probably my favorite climb anywhere. I've done it twice on a rope, and six times free-solo. My best time is 1 hour and 6 minutes from the base of the climb to the end of the technical difficulties (end of the 18th pitch in Swain's guidebook).
Posted Jan 23, 2003 5:39 pm

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