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Blade Runner
Route

Blade Runner

 

Page Type: Route

Location: Wyoming, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 44.59060°N / 104.715°W

Object Title: Blade Runner

Route Type: Rock-Classic Aid

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: A3+, 5.7

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: bigwally

Created/Edited: Apr 8, 2001 / Apr 8, 2001

Object ID: 155500

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Approach


Approach over the Southwest Shoulder. Locate Blade City. Blade Runner is one crack to the left.Scramble as high as you can and set an anchor.

Route Description


This Route was first done by Frank Sanders, solo, in the Spring of 2000. It is a wonderful, thin crack line with solid belays from pitons. Clearly a 3-Star Route.You could spend alot of time searching on El Cap and NOT find anywhere near this quality of thin nailing !!!

Pitch 1. (160 ft., A3+) Initially the crack will accept small cams, then small stoppers, then nothing but Bugaboos, Blades and Rurps. All seemed solid, most were tied off. Set your own belay where the crack widens to accept secure angles.

Pitch 2. (150 ft., A3) Continue on thin pins until the crack ends, then traverse right and join Blade City, climbing up to a solid hanging belay.

Pitch 3. ( 155ft., A3, 5.7) Climb the Blade City crack to the summit. The crack narrows and widens several times, leading to some clever placements and an amount of free climbing. Numerous wide pieces help alot here.

Essential Gear


Standard aid rack.
Additional Blades and Bugs for the 1st pitch ; believe that I used 30......and 5 RURPS and 2 BirdBeaks.
Additional wide pro for pitch 3. Several #4, #4.5 & even #5 Friends or Cams would not be too many.

Miscellaneous Info


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