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Blanca Peak Climber's Log

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jainman09First 14er  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2005

jainman09

Beautiful approach.
Posted Feb 25, 2013 2:57 am

williama3Good Times!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2012
Summit
Posted Jan 27, 2013 10:28 pm

FletchI was...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2011

Fletch

with a crew trailbuilding. Nice few days out...
Posted Dec 28, 2012 3:22 pm

milan4th tallest in Colorado  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2010
The hike to Lace Como is not very nice, we took full backpacks and it was long. The area is gorgeous. Blanca is beautiful and traverse to Ellingwood Poin is a nice spicy ridge.
Posted Oct 21, 2012 5:14 pm

WillieCornettBeautiful  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2007

WillieCornett

Great trip with my friend Clark.
Posted Oct 14, 2012 1:09 am

DigglerWhat a mountain!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2012

Diggler

7.10.’12: Little Bear-Blanca traverse (finally!)- Left Little Bear's summit @ 10.33. Booked it, as clouds all around (didn't seem threatening, but didn't want them to evolve to that). Quite the aerobic climb, & great fun! Arrived @ Blanca's summit @ 11.50 => 1:17 total. Magnificent climb, great time!
Left summit @ 12.06 & descended NW face. Back @ car @ 8,000’ @ 17.19 (=> 11:27 c2c). What a day!!

7.16.'12: Ormes' Buttress ascent, w/ Faith; descent via Gash Ridge
Left campsite @ 4.51, TH (10,470’) @ 5.08. Started climb (Ormes' Buttress) @ 7.30.

First pitch loose 4th. Second pitch & on mostly 4th & easy 5th, frequently broken & loose, & interspersed by grassy ledges. Three or 4 sections of 5.6- 2nd pitch (the way we did it, at least) the crux- traverse to L, needed to get over overhang, comprised of detached blocks/flakes that seemed like great handholds (+ pro’ behind where detached, but also seemed like ready to come off if pulled or loaded (cam expanding). Freaky shit. Unroped in middle of climb for ~200’, & simul’ed last 400’ (4th -> easy 5th). On upper ‘prow,’ went to L to avoid difficulties (possible on many sections of the climb), as weather iffy.

Pro’ tiny (.1) -> #3 Camalot- as mostly parallel-sided cracks, nuts not very useful. Could’ve maybe used a 3.5). As rock compact, pro’ frequently scarce (anchors also sometimes difficult), as cracks infrequent.

Summited @ 13.23. Fun climb, but rock variability, & ledges decreased value somewhat. Still glad to have finally done!

After Ormes Buttress ascent, descended Gash Ridge. Exposed, fairly straightforward, & FUN! Rock quality fairly good- better than Ormes. Roach right on- mostly sustained 4th, with a few easy 5th sections. Belayed F through a few exposed sections.

Left summit @ 13.43. Unfortunately, went down wrong gully (should have climbed up & over (300’?) last uprising. Our descent was a shitty LOOSE gully that led to a talus/scree field that cliffed out. Dropped bag w/ pro’ in it & prolonged rain/hail only added to the fun. Attempt to get off when valley below SO tantalizingly close unbelievably vexing. F’s break-down only added to the seriousness. Did 3 rap’s. Last one, off a boulder that took one of my cordelettes, finally got to the ground @ 20.30. Final march thru driving rain put us back at the TH @ 22.13. FULL-VALUE day! Running heater for ½ hour, dry clothes, & chili SO good (couldn’t even tie laces before- fingers useless!). Epic day.
Posted Oct 1, 2012 8:02 pm

djkestBlanca Peak- From Ellingwood  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2012

djkest

Did Ellingwood Point via SW ridge and traversed to Blanca Peak from an overnight camp above Lake Como. Saw some bighorn sheep.
Posted Aug 28, 2012 5:47 pm

MissHBlanca-out  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2012

MissH

Started 8650' day before. Camped at Lake Como. Thunder storm (with hail) ruined dinner time. Watched the fog roll in on the early morning start. Beautiful views from summit when fog allowed it. Great trip.
Posted Aug 25, 2012 12:13 pm

Woodie HopperLittle Bear-Blanca traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2012

Woodie Hopper

Climbed via the traverse from Little Bear. Classic.
Posted Aug 5, 2012 1:52 am

lilmantisWith Orion  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2011

lilmantis

My dates are all wrong probably but I forgot to sign the log last year. What an awesome climb with beautiful exposure though! Perfect weather too.
Posted Jul 8, 2012 10:31 pm

CWFryBeautiful  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2012

CWFry

Long day. Hiked from close to Hwy 150 to peak. Endless rocks on the road, so wear sold footwear. Hiked with MCR. Beautiful scenery and ultimately well worth the effort.
Posted Jul 1, 2012 9:41 pm

mjholmesLooooong Approach  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 4, 1979

mjholmes

Walked the road as we did not have a capable 4X4 and it was a very long day, but worth it.
Posted Mar 12, 2012 8:07 pm

mattwagner58Great first 14er!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2005
Perfect weather. Summited on first day, camped along the upper lakes, and decended the next day.
Posted Feb 6, 2012 12:32 pm

xpdaBlanca  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 4, 1995

xpda

Rained on the way down.
Posted Oct 29, 2011 12:21 pm

BrianSSRoute Climbed: Standard Route From Lake Como Trailhead  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 30, 2011
Started hiking a few miles in on Lake Como Road, set up camp, then continued on to the summits of Blanca and Ellingwood.
Posted Oct 22, 2011 7:50 pm

Ted EliasonLinked over from Ellingwood  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008

Ted Eliason

An easy traverse over
Posted Oct 13, 2011 3:10 pm

technicolorNHRetreat
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2011

technicolorNH

Parked about 1.5 miles in from the highway and hiked the remaining 5.8 miles to Como Lake. The weather had been nasty in previous days with several inches of snow halfway up the saddle and my lack of foot chains and full alpine gear made turning back a necessity when the clouds swept in and sleet came down in sheets. Two other hikers well ahead of me on the saddle kept going but they looked very well equipped.
Posted Oct 6, 2011 1:54 am

Jeremy HakesNight climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2005

Jeremy Hakes

During the night. Awesome.
Posted Oct 4, 2011 11:01 am

JohnnyCOBlanca/ Ellingwood  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 30, 2011

JohnnyCO

Great weather! Bit cold on summit. Made my way over to Ellingwood via just below the ridge. Magnificent views and vibes!
Posted Oct 1, 2011 2:01 pm

belexesLake Como  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2011

belexes

Meetup.com trip. We hiked in from San Luis Valley on Saturday and camped at Lake Como. We started around 4AM Sunday morning. There was a lot of loose talus higher up, so the "trail" was very hard to find. We went to the right before the saddle and dealt with some fairly easy class 3 scrambling before we made the summit. We got to the summit around 7:30 or so, I think. The clouds were already building up early in the day. Then we went over to Ellingwood Point.
Posted Aug 22, 2011 2:52 pm

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