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Blitzableiter
Route

Blitzableiter

 

Page Type: Route

Location: Kastraki, Greece, Europe

Object Title: Blitzableiter

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: V+

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: Nikolas_A

Created/Edited: Jan 4, 2004 / Jan 20, 2004

Object ID: 159760

Hits: 2160 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

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Approach


Located on the Delta Spur this route (meaning "Lightning conductor" in German) is approached from the road from Kastraki to Roussanou monastery. From the fork on the road 300-400m before the monastery a 20' trail going south ant then east at the first junction takes you to the base of the route.

Route Description


The route isn't one of those you have to wait in line for, so there is some loose rock & vegetation, not much of a problem, though.
Picht 1
The route follows a thin crack diagonaly to the left (IV+) . Soon it continues onto a slab slighly to the right and left again (IV) to a hanging belay (30m)
Pitch 2
The second route continues straight up for ~10m (IV), traverses left on a slab an goes up again following a system of grooves (IV). The exit is diagonally to the right to a slightly more comfortable belay (35m).
Pitch 3
The first move after the belay is the route's crux (V+) which gets you into another groove. A few meters diagonally to the right on a slab lead onto a ramp going left. The belay is made on trees in the middle of the ramp (30m)

Pitch 4
The fourth pitch is actually a roped walk up to the summit. After signing the summit log rappel through "Ostweg" (the route on the east face, directions in the summit log)

Essential Gear


Double 50m ropes, 6-7 draws, slings, 1 set of stoppers