BRING YOUR BIKE and park at the Ribbon Creek parking lot at Kananaskis Village. Bike in on the wide path picking up 500' gain and 5 km. There is a bike rack at the end of this wide trail. Continue on foot for another 6 km (old cabin(s) site 1 km into this hike). You will proceed through the camp site and Ribbon Falls (good photo ops) onto switchbacks. At about 7000' you will be at a drainage opening up to cliffs and water worn rock that lead to a small tairn and the cirque of Bogart. (There are no trails or cairns, I found one flag and started a small cairn in 2003).
The cliffs above the drainage contain your first crux. I free climbed 5.6 straight up some of these 20'-30' walls, but you can circumvent most of them to the top left of the drainage, traversing back over to the right. The top of this problem opens up to a large cirque with the summit of Bogart to the NE. There are no trails, just head straight up the scree staying to the right to bypass a lower cliff. Proceed up hellish scree to the cliffs protecting the summit. Depending on conditions, wind and ice can both be a factor at this point. Look for the driest route. There are quite a few rock bands to face during the last 800'. A steep gully to the left of the bulge in the middle gets you started. I had too much ice and wind to piddle around route finding, so free climbed short and steep rock bands right up the middle. I am sure there is a more moderate route. After this crux, you still have to navigate 3-5 smaller rock-ice bands. Remember your route up, these are steep cliffs. On descent, navigate to the right through the lower crux at 8000'. At times, I faced winds of 50-80 mph.
Ice ax, mini or regular crampons, helmet, goggles for the wind and good legs could be handy.
""You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know.""