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Bogart Scramble

 
Bogart Scramble

Page Type: Route

Location: Alberta, Canada, North America

Lat/Lon: 50.90830°N / 115.2416°W

Object Title: Bogart Scramble

Route Type: Scrambling

Season: Summer

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Moderate-Difficult

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes
 

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: May 23, 2005 / Oct 10, 2006

Object ID: 165178

Hits: 2160 

Page Score: 71.06%  - 1 Votes 

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Approach

BRING YOUR BIKE and park at the Ribbon Creek parking lot at Kananaskis Village. Bike in on the wide path picking up 500' gain and 5 km. There is a bike rack at the end of this wide trail. Continue on foot for another 6 km (old cabin(s) site 1 km into this hike). You will proceed through the camp site and Ribbon Falls (good photo ops) onto switchbacks. At about 7000' you will be at a drainage opening up to cliffs and water worn rock that lead to a small tairn and the cirque of Bogart. (There are no trails or cairns, I found one flag and started a small cairn in 2003).


Route Description

The cliffs above the drainage contain your first crux. I free climbed 5.6 straight up some of these 20'-30' walls, but you can circumvent most of them to the top left of the drainage, traversing back over to the right. The top of this problem opens up to a large cirque with the summit of Bogart to the NE. There are no trails, just head straight up the scree staying to the right to bypass a lower cliff. Proceed up hellish scree to the cliffs protecting the summit. Depending on conditions, wind and ice can both be a factor at this point. Look for the driest route. There are quite a few rock bands to face during the last 800'. A steep gully to the left of the bulge in the middle gets you started. I had too much ice and wind to piddle around route finding, so free climbed short and steep rock bands right up the middle. I am sure there is a more moderate route. After this crux, you still have to navigate 3-5 smaller rock-ice bands. Remember your route up, these are steep cliffs. On descent, navigate to the right through the lower crux at 8000'. At times, I faced winds of 50-80 mph.

Essential Gear

Ice ax, mini or regular crampons, helmet, goggles for the wind and good legs could be handy.

Images

The harsh winds at the summit...The start of your ascent...The final crux to Mt. Bogart;...Mount Bogart from the ascent...Mount Bogart from the Summit...