Great late season trip from what is now apparently called the Bolam Trailhead by the NFS (on maps as Coquette Falls). The falls were dry as they often are, but this is the easiest access and is a very short day to camp if you have the right vehicle.
Glacier was open and icy in spots but we didn't need to place any protection. Very relentless down low where ice waves separated by fresh snow made going strenuous. Crossed the bergshrund on a serac bridge near the left side and easy but steep from there to the summit. Weather just barely held out for us- had a whiteout en route to camp but clear skies the next day. And no one had summitted in eight days. Splendid route this time of year! And bonus... I fell in the crevasse just below the bergshrund (up to my chest). Easy enough to get out on my own though... good times!
Ascended Bolam glacier and descended a combination of the upper glacier, Bolam Gully and Hotlum-Bolam ridge. Beautiful approach day to Marine Camp, but at midnight the switch turned on the the winds started howling. The bergschrund was bridged in a couple of places so we crossed it. Perfect surface conditions for cramponing. No ice except a very short section of shards near the North Summit. Fierce headwinds during the climb, with summit gusts forecast at 60-70mph - short video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dslWOPxdpmY
A whiteout followed shortly. Proposed to my girlfriend at the summit... She said "yes"!