Book of Saturdays, 5.11, 12 Pitches Climber's Log
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|DarrenKnezek||Lady Luck on Book of Saturday |
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2014
|Climbed this with my friend Perin Blanchard. I didn't think that any of the climbing was hard, but many times on almost every pitch you're pulling on holds that could easily break. Not a big deal until you realize that a few times the fall would break bones or kill you. Not sure why there wasn't a bolt in those spots as you could drill hands free. (Plus there are over a hundred bolts on the route.) I wouldn't be surprised if someone gets hurt really badly on this route even if they are a great climber.|
The spots are the last moves to the anchor on Pitch 4, in the middle of pitch 5, the end of pitch 6, on the crux moves of pitch 8 above a ankle busting ledge, between bolts one and two on pitch 9 where you would nail another ledge.
This makes the climb no stars for me and left with a feeling of artificial danger.
We did the climb with 2 70 meter ropes. We linked pitches 3 & 4, 5 & 6, 7 & 8, 9 & 10. We rappelled the entire route in less than one hour with 6 70 meter rappels.
|Posted Sep 7, 2014 7:58 pm|
|Dow Williams||Book of Saturdays, Notch Peak |
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2013
|Gets 5 stars for remoteness. 1 star for rock quality. A fantastic day out with Peter Valchev. We were drawn to it by this description we found on line..."Watch for rattlesnakes....you think you climb fast but you will be rappelling in the dark.....assume no one will be in the canyon for months....rescue is improbable...cell phones have no service....death from exposure is possible if become marooned on the wall....good luck"...when Peter gets a hold of a new english word, he beats it to death for a bit...I heard him discussing our potentially getting marooned all day! and he hated the tarantula hawks even though they seemed to love him..I told him not to worry about them...when he got home and googled how bad their sting would have been...made my day! Asked me to be his best man on this day..will be impossible to forget. Cheers mate|
|Posted Aug 18, 2013 4:57 pm|