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Broken Top Climber's Log

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gimpilator35 peaks in 16 days  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2017


Road trip! Josh and I climbed this peak and then Middle and North Sister the next day. Josh was running on zero sleep because he did South Sister during the night and I was running on no food because I stupidly left it all in the car. Trip report
Posted Oct 20, 2017 2:48 pm

Brian Jenkinsstandard route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2002

Brian Jenkins

With Mark Denyer. This is another summitlog that was deleted by a hacker. Did standard route up but then at the crux move, if you go around a bit to the west there is an easier grove to scramble up. Fun summit.
Posted Aug 26, 2017 2:36 pm

HarvestNW Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2015


NW Ridge Route: Class 4 (YDS 5.1)

My friend Jon invited me on this climb. What a fun scramble. This is where I saw Vic & Santiam Alpine Club.
Posted Mar 30, 2017 3:18 am

adamschneiderThere was a rope!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2016


This would have been an amazingly fun hike/climb in nice weather; unfortunately, there was a 20-30 mph wind and the temperature was in the 40s, with the cloud deck getting lower by the hour. Still a cool view down into BT's crater, but I was in no mood to linger on top.

Anyway, the "crux" of the NW ridge — the vertical crack in the 10' basalt band — was fairly easy because someone had left a rope (webbing) on it. Who knows how long it'll be there, but it definitely helps, especially on the way down. Without the rope, I might have gone around to the scrambly rock on the left (east) side of the summit block; three other people ascended (and one descended) that way while I was up there.
Posted Sep 18, 2016 4:01 pm

96avs01Great Views  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2016


Have to be the best views of the Three Sisters I've found. Went up/down the NW ridge. Carried a rope, but didn't use it. Really nice climber's trail, highly recommend this outing (when snow-free).
Posted Sep 12, 2016 10:12 pm

emilieCascades Mountaineers  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2016


I'd been up to the summit block solo before and decided not to climb it without a partner and a rope. Went back with my Cascades Mountaineers buddies, 7 total, on a beautiful day and got everyone up and down without incident. We did rope up and rappel the first section of steep climbing, but did not feel it was needed for the summit block.
Posted Aug 17, 2016 9:55 pm

DundeelNW Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2016


Great climb with Duane starting at the Broken Top TH. Met Marcy and her dad Dean on the ridge and they gave us great guidance on the summit block.
Posted Aug 1, 2016 10:52 pm

mcdonaldjoshFrom Todd Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2011
Green Lakes Trailhead was packed so I decided to start at the trail at Todd Lake, which eventually met up with the Green Lakes trail.
Posted Dec 13, 2015 1:59 pm

PTMcGThe Summer of Bend  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 31, 2014
After having spent decades of winters in Sunriver to enjoy the skiing at Mt Bachelor, my wife and I spent our first full summer there, our so-called "Summer of Bend." We were blown away by the lakes, streams and trails of the central Cascade and spent numerous days hiking and scrambling through the southern expanse of the 3 Sisters Wilderness Area; Moraine Lake, Ice Lake, Fall Creek, Soda Creek and the Green Lakes area. The South Sister is the 3rd highest summit in Oregon and the focus for 90+% of summiteers within the wilderness. On some days, while I glassed the south ridge of South Sister I could see a continuous ant thread of climbers massing up and down from that summit. It is a beautiful summit often swaddled in moustache clouds. It is quite different, to the east on Broken Top. There is an official summit for those that need one, but even more, there are three massifs that form the mountain. Each is serrated with spectacular pinnacles and challenging routes, often on highly friable rock, leading to their precipitous points. If you enjoy the isolation of remote routes and the challenge of getting up those, you will love approaches from within the crater. However, BE WARNED, these are not for the faint of heart as exposures, slides and the frequent clapping of rock-fall abound. Be prepared and willing to take multiple trips upon these spires to learn the details of their singular approaches AND take protection as some of these routes can be free climbed but down climbing is out of the question. Be safe, breathe freely and enjoy the memories you make in your own Summer of Bend.
Posted Nov 1, 2014 11:40 am

Nick TurturaSo much fun  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2014

Nick Turtura

This thing is just so much fun. This is the first time I've done it with so little snow. I finally found the scramble route to the left. We still went to the right and went up the crack on the rock band. Keep in mind that this is a low snow year and the scramble route is not there if there is any snow around the left corner of the rock band.

Blue bird day!
Posted Sep 22, 2014 1:28 am

OutdoorpartnerBack side only
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2013


I don't deserve to sign the real climbers log because I only climbed the back side behind the lake. I totally botched the hike in, turning before Green Lakes on the trail sign that said "Broken Top" instead of continuing onward. By the time I realized the error it was too late. It was beautiful up there but the threat of thunderstorms was too great to hang out and enjoy the views. From Green Lakes trailhead it was still an 11 hour day.
Posted Aug 16, 2013 1:01 am

triyodaBeautiful Day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2013


Lakes were gorgeous, summit was great. Definitely a little bit of a pucker factor on the crux step, at least for a piker like me. Made a sling out of a 30 ft length of webbing and slung it through the rappel sling for the down climb. Yes, I am a wimp.
Posted Jul 7, 2013 11:41 pm

Troy BNW Ridge from Green Lakes  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2013

Troy B

Climbed directly up using the crack on the summit block. Had the peak to myself in the early morning, excellent views!
Posted Jul 7, 2013 12:35 am

SirburtmundAwesome climb up 11 o'clock couloir  Sucess!


Awesome climb, maybe my favorite ever. It really pushed me to a new level. Now I just want to climb hard stuff!
Posted Jun 2, 2013 1:55 pm

cyffredinolGreat climb!  Sucess!


Definitely tested my fear of heights! Thanks to Magnus for leading and Andee for protecting the route.
Posted May 20, 2013 1:30 am

wildernessprestonNW Ridge Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2011


My first time up Broken Top. Fantastic climb, the exposure and summit block were not nearly as bad as I expected. Awesome scree descent from the summit. I love this mountain.
Posted Apr 4, 2013 9:16 pm

wildernessprestonNW Ridge Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2012


Second time up Broken Top via green lakes and NW Ridge. Great climb, my favorite in Oregon! The exposure at the top is not all that bad, just be careful of that infamous, lose, cascadian rock.
Posted Apr 4, 2013 9:14 pm

Dan WinterNW Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2012

Dan Winter

The drive up to the Broken Top trail head is one of the most scenic and roughest roads I have been on. This climb was more fun than I had expected.
Posted Sep 29, 2012 5:31 pm

Nick TurturaThe Best  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 26, 2011

Nick Turtura

By far my favorite mountain in Oregon. A little of everything.
Posted Jun 5, 2012 12:03 am

santanoniNW Ridge w/scree descent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2011


The exposure at the top is not too bad, although magnified by its crumbling nature. The descent was quite fast going down the scree slopes. Green lakes were indeed green.
Posted Jan 13, 2012 11:49 am

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