Welcome to SP!  -

Bubbas In Bondage

 
[ Sizes: Orig | Large | Med | Small | Thumb ]
Bubbas In Bondage
Starting up Bubbas In Bondage on Picnic Lunch Wall. Easy & safe aid made more interesting by 2 hook moves ...for me anyways (Fall 2008).

Comments


[ Post a Comment ]
Viewing: 1-4 of 4    

MarcsoltanHave a question

Marcsoltan

Voted 10/10

Is this an aid route, or are you placing bolts for a later free ascent? In any case, the photos are great. And your "Mountain and Rock" page on Smith Rock is more like a guide book than just another page. Fantastic job,
Happy climbing,
marc
Posted Dec 8, 2008 11:05 pm

rpcRe: Have a question

rpc

Hasn't voted

Marc,
thanks for good words. It's an early 80's aid line (it's actually a direct 2 pitch start to a longer aid line) the 1st pitch of which someone retrobolted into a free pitch (& freed at 11+). 1st pitch used to go at A3, now goes at C1.
Posted Dec 8, 2008 11:14 pm

MarcsoltanRe: Have a question

Marcsoltan

Voted 10/10

Wow, that comes as a surprise to me! Used to go as A1, now goes as C1. I could have easily reversed those ratings.

Thanks for the explanation.
Marc
Posted Dec 9, 2008 12:28 am

rpcRe: Have a question

rpc

Hasn't voted

Marc,
it went from A3 (thin hammering I think) to about C1 (hammerless & easy) with the addition of bolts (I'd guess by people who first freed it???). Is this ethical? Probably not I'd guess but aid climbing is a dying activity in OR with no real voice to protest such things (now if this was around Moab, would be a different story). Thanks for visiting & kind words.
Posted Dec 9, 2008 12:10 pm

Viewing: 1-4 of 4    




Rate This Image
Current Score: 79.04

Log In To Vote
 Smith Rock Crags (Area/Range)

Toy Blocks
« PREV

Viewing
#38 of 93
GALLERY
Bubbas In Bondage
NEXT »

 rpc's Image Gallery

Full Cultural Immersion
« PREV

Viewing
#1365 of 4237
GALLERY
Bubbas In Bondage
NEXT »


 Photo of the Hour (Album)


Image Data
rpcSubmitted by rpc
on Dec 8, 2008 10:06 am

Image ID: 470205
Hits: 1115 
Object Title: Bubbas In Bondage

Image Type(s): Aid Climbing