North Cascades > Buckner Mountain > Climber's LogBuckner Mountain Climber's Log
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[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
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| relic | Southwest slope  | |
| Catching up on logs I should've signed years ago. Did SW slope, relatively easy scramble. Summit provides one of the best views anywhere, right in the heart of the best stuff in the North Cascades. | |
| Posted Sep 18, 2011 11:13 am | ||
| Norman | SW Slope Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2011 | |
| Very good weather, amazing views, good friends. Dropped my camera on way down...good buy to pics and camera into Horseshoe Basin faster than a speeding bullet. Rats!!! | |
| Posted Sep 12, 2011 12:51 am | ||
| GrumpyJohn | Long Day Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2011 | |
| Summited via The North Face during a long day of kicking steps. Lots of snow in July. | |
| Posted Jul 21, 2011 9:26 pm | ||
| ExcitableBoy | North Face | |
| Climbed the North Face in a casual two days. Bivied in the middle of the expansive Boston Glacier. | |
| Posted Dec 28, 2010 10:09 am | ||
| Dennis Poulin | Sahale Arm approach Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2010 | |
| Great climb with great partners. Ericnoel, redwic, and gimpilator all helped get my butt on the summit and safely back down. | |
| Posted Jul 19, 2010 10:52 pm | ||
| ericnoel | Buckner Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2010 | |
| We made the SW summit just fine right before the weather started going downhill. This is one of the most scenic areas in WA to my eye. All in all it was a good trip with some adventurous moments. | |
| Posted Jul 13, 2010 12:23 am | ||
| Redwic | I think Gimpilator basically said it all... Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2010 | |
| This summit trek had a little of everything. It also had an abundance of snow-loving invertebrates... such as tiny black worms, big black spiders, ants, flies, and even one caterpillar. Marmots were all over Sahale Arm. Even the "easier" southwest approach for Buckner Mountain is a grind, but this is one of my favorite summit treks to date, and one I will look fondly back on the experience in the future. Also... I concur with peakbagging extraordinaire Edward Earl's assessment (along with MANY others) that the southwest peak is definitely higher than the northeast peak. For me, this was Washington CoHP #22 (out of 39). | |
| Posted Jul 12, 2010 11:01 am | ||
| gimpilator | SW Slope to SW Summit Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2010 | |
| Rock fall, multiple avalanches, scrambling on loose dirt and rock, veggie belays, steep snow climbing, glaciers, waterfalls, wet slabs, and a whiteout. This climb had a little bit of everything. Eric surprised us all with his speed. Ken helped change our flat tire on the cascade river road. Denis demonstrated the proper way to self-arrest after taking a fall on the steepest part of the route. And Craig helped me find the tent in a whiteout. | |
| Posted Jul 12, 2010 9:58 am | ||
| DBaker | North Face Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2007 | |
| Simply a classic! Didn't see a soul aside from our group. Good fun climbing and plenty of exposure. | |
| Posted Sep 17, 2007 6:18 pm | ||
| YEM | SW Slope Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007 | |
| Wow. My new favorite mountain. After Cascade Pass, I didn't see anyone. The crux was the bush getting into the upper basin. The rest was an open snow slope. Supreme views from the summit. I will be back. | |
| Posted Aug 21, 2007 12:24 am | ||
| Pantilat | North Face Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2003 | |
| Awesome route! | |
| Posted Jun 20, 2007 2:21 am | ||
| sprosseda | SW face on ice Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2011 | |
| Bivied on Sahale glacier. Dropped down nasty cl 3/4 ridge and steep snow finger to upper Horseshoe basin. Started at 5am. Took icy snow whole way to summit with a little class 3 rock on top. At summit at 8.30am, spectacular 360 views! Downclimbed 40-45 degree ice facing in for 1,000 feet, then eventually back to slushy snow. Took 14.5 hours on the go with a bivi 3.5 hours into it. Did about 7,500 feet vertical for round trip! Magnificent experience! Second time doing this mountain. | |
| Posted Sep 10, 2003 11:06 am | ||
| leftfield | Route Climbed: Southwest Slope Date Climbed: July 12, 2003 | |
| There is another way! (for those of us who are not world class climbers). We hiked to Cascade Pass and up Sahale Arm and camped in bomber, knock -your -socks -off -views sites on the Sahale Glacier. Then we dropped down into Horseshoe Basin and traversed it below Ripsaw Ridge to the saddle below the summit block. | |
| Posted Aug 15, 2003 5:32 pm | ||
| Bob Bolton | Route Climbed: SW Slopes Date Climbed: July 12, 2003 | |
| Duane and I joined a Mazamas climb. We hiked to Sahale glacier camp on Friday, traversed through Horseshoe Basin to the summit and back on Saturday. The weather was worsening during the day, and the wind and rain started as we began the climb back up to camp. Sunday morning we loaded up and hiked out in the storm. Great peak with fantastic views of the North Cascades. Posted on 16 Jan 2007: With great sorrow I announce the passing of our esteemed leader on this climb. Ed Holt was a senior climbing leader with the Mazamas, and he was a friend who had recently retired from my place of work. He had a heart attack while skiing on Mt. Hood on Saturday 13 Jan 2007. He will be sorely missed by many. In our summit photo below, he is standing with the red jacket. I'm standing next to him on the far right. Ed, may you rest in peace my friend.  | |
| Posted Jul 17, 2003 9:58 pm | ||
| Pencil Pusher | Route Climbed: N Face Date Climbed: August 1, 2002 | |
| Sweet but short route. The traverse beneath Boston royally sucked. Excellent conditions... spent the night wrapped up in foil like a burrito and lead up the first 500' in Vasque Sundowners (these made the approach and exit pretty darned easy) with SMC crampons. We had four picket placements for the entire route and this was mainly to protect the one crevasse (to add some spice to the relatively easy trip) and to swap out leads. Last 200 feet had ice beneath two feet of soft snow. Excellent day and views. Accessing Sahale Arm from the SW slopes of Buckner had us ascending steep snow slopes with some funny tracks left by an apparently glissading mountain goat. | |
| Posted Mar 7, 2003 12:20 am | ||
| tbnelson | Route Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: July 15, 2002 | |
| Summited on a beautiful morning after bivying on the Sahale - Boston col. 1300 feet of good cramponing snow up to the summit and awesome views. We downclimbed our ascent route and then went back across the Boston Glacier and bagged Boston Peak. | |
| Posted Jul 22, 2002 2:37 pm | ||
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