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seanoNorth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2014

seano

Crossed the Boston Glacier from Sahale and Boston, then up the face to the summit in ~5h30 from the car. Perfect step-kicking snow, and the bergschrund was thankfully still bridged on one side. A few crevasses, but much easier than the glacier crossing to Dorado Needle. Trip report.
Posted Jul 19, 2014 4:23 pm

nickmechSouthwest  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2011

nickmech

Climbed after Sahale. Hot and soft snow.
Posted Apr 8, 2014 2:43 pm

Brian JenkinsLittle bit of everything  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2013

Brian Jenkins

Climbed with Karl, Ron and Rich (and picked up a guy named Nicolai on the way). Started 6 am Saturday morning. Rich and Ron split from us to do the Horseshoe Basin approach while Karl and I hiked up to Sahale Glacier Camp. From there we descended to the Sahale Ridge and onto the rock. Searched and found the right (there really is only one) way down to the 4th class downclimb but the snow finger looked nasty with deep moats so we went off right and scrambled down around the bottom of the ridge (lost about 1200 feet total). Traversed around Horseshoe Basin to a spot about 7100 feet above the prominent rock there where we saw Rich and Ron climbing up from the basin below. Set up a planned bivy and were met and joined by Nicolai/Two Dog Daddy who was soloing it.

Long, cold, sleepless night trying to stay warm in a bivy sack with no bag (brilliant idea I had to save weight). Started again around 6 am traversing over to the hourglass on styrofoam snow. Not sure if it was because this is later in the season than it seems most do this peak but seemed steeper than the 40 degrees as advertised. At least 45 if not a little more. Ron climbed the snow, Karl went left moat, then snow. Nicolai scrambled the rock on the right and Rich and I went moat, rock, back into the moat, dead end at waterfall, 5th class snow move out of the moat back onto snow. We all ended up scrambled some loose 3rd class stuff below the summit pinnacle and then an easy scramble up the final 100 or so feet. Found a way to scrambled the rock all the way down (with two short snow traverses) below the hour glass and back to camp about 1 pm.

Decided to take Horseshoe Basin out and angled left from camp to the trees. From there it was the bushwhack from hell with minor cliff-outs, hanging from bent tree limbs with feet dangling, swarms of flies down to the valley below where we found several rushing creeks to cross. Karl ended up barefooting it while the rest of us built foot bridges with tree trunks to cross and find the trail out. Back to the cars via headlamps by 12:50 am. Called in sick to work today and after being up for the last 56 hours with two 45 minute naps on the drive back to Portland, headed to sleep now....................

Big climb. Fun climb. Good people. Lots of memories. Don't need to do Buckner again though. :-)
Posted Jul 29, 2013 5:15 pm

relicSouthwest slope  Sucess!

relic

Catching up on logs I should've signed years ago. Did SW slope, relatively easy scramble. Summit provides one of the best views anywhere, right in the heart of the best stuff in the North Cascades.
Posted Sep 18, 2011 11:13 am

NormanSW Slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2011

Norman

Very good weather, amazing views, good friends. Dropped my camera on way down...good buy to pics and camera into Horseshoe Basin faster than a speeding bullet. Rats!!!
Posted Sep 12, 2011 12:51 am

GrumpyJohnLong Day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2011

GrumpyJohn

Summited via The North Face during a long day of kicking steps. Lots of snow in July.
Posted Jul 21, 2011 9:26 pm

ExcitableBoyNorth Face  Sucess!

ExcitableBoy

Climbed the North Face in a casual two days. Bivied in the middle of the expansive Boston Glacier.
Posted Dec 28, 2010 10:09 am

Dennis PoulinSahale Arm approach  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2010

Dennis Poulin

Great climb with great partners. Ericnoel, redwic, and gimpilator all helped get my butt on the summit and safely back down.
Posted Jul 19, 2010 10:52 pm

ericnoelBuckner  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2010

ericnoel

We made the SW summit just fine right before the weather started going downhill. This is one of the most scenic areas in WA to my eye. All in all it was a good trip with some adventurous moments.
Posted Jul 13, 2010 12:23 am

RedwicI think Gimpilator basically said it all...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2010

Redwic

This summit trek had a little of everything. It also had an abundance of snow-loving invertebrates... such as tiny black worms, big black spiders, ants, flies, and even one caterpillar. Marmots were all over Sahale Arm. Even the "easier" southwest approach for Buckner Mountain is a grind, but this is one of my favorite summit treks to date, and one I will look fondly back on the experience in the future.
Also... I concur with peakbagging extraordinaire Edward Earl's assessment (along with MANY others) that the southwest peak is definitely higher than the northeast peak. For me, this was Washington CoHP #22 (out of 39).
Posted Jul 12, 2010 11:01 am

gimpilatorSW Slope to SW Summit  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2010

gimpilator

Rock fall, multiple avalanches, scrambling on loose dirt and rock, veggie belays, steep snow climbing, glaciers, waterfalls, wet slabs, and a whiteout. This climb had a little bit of everything. Eric surprised us all with his speed. Ken helped change our flat tire on the cascade river road. Denis demonstrated the proper way to self-arrest after taking a fall on the steepest part of the route. And Craig helped me find the tent in a whiteout.

Posted Jul 12, 2010 9:58 am

DBakerNorth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2007

DBaker

Simply a classic! Didn't see a soul aside from our group. Good fun climbing and plenty of exposure.
Posted Sep 17, 2007 6:18 pm

YEMSW Slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007

YEM

Wow. My new favorite mountain. After Cascade Pass, I didn't see anyone. The crux was the bush getting into the upper basin. The rest was an open snow slope. Supreme views from the summit. I will be back.
Posted Aug 21, 2007 12:24 am

PantilatNorth Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2003

Pantilat

Awesome route!
Posted Jun 20, 2007 2:21 am

sprossedaSW face on ice  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2011

sprosseda

Bivied on Sahale glacier. Dropped down nasty cl 3/4 ridge and steep snow finger to upper Horseshoe basin. Started at 5am. Took icy snow whole way to summit with a little class 3 rock on top. At summit at 8.30am, spectacular 360 views! Downclimbed 40-45 degree ice facing in for 1,000 feet, then eventually back to slushy snow. Took 14.5 hours on the go with a bivi 3.5 hours into it. Did about 7,500 feet vertical for round trip! Magnificent experience! Second time doing this mountain.
Posted Sep 10, 2003 11:06 am

leftfieldRoute Climbed: Southwest Slope Date Climbed: July 12, 2003  Sucess!

leftfield

There is another way! (for those of us who are not world class climbers). We hiked to Cascade Pass and up Sahale Arm and camped in bomber, knock -your -socks -off -views sites on the Sahale Glacier. Then we dropped down into Horseshoe Basin and traversed it below Ripsaw Ridge to the saddle below the summit block.
Posted Aug 15, 2003 5:32 pm

Bob BoltonRoute Climbed: SW Slopes Date Climbed: July 12, 2003

Bob Bolton

Duane and I joined a Mazamas climb. We hiked to Sahale glacier camp on Friday, traversed through Horseshoe Basin to the summit and back on Saturday. The weather was worsening during the day, and the wind and rain started as we began the climb back up to camp. Sunday morning we loaded up and hiked out in the storm. Great peak with fantastic views of the North Cascades.

Posted on 16 Jan 2007: With great sorrow I announce the passing of our esteemed leader on this climb. Ed Holt was a senior climbing leader with the Mazamas, and he was a friend who had recently retired from my place of work. He had a heart attack while skiing on Mt. Hood on Saturday 13 Jan 2007. He will be sorely missed by many. In our summit photo below, he is standing with the red jacket. I'm standing next to him on the far right. Ed, may you rest in peace my friend.

Posted Jul 17, 2003 9:58 pm

Pencil PusherRoute Climbed: N Face Date Climbed: August 1, 2002  Sucess!

Pencil Pusher

Sweet but short route. The traverse beneath Boston royally sucked. Excellent conditions... spent the night wrapped up in foil like a burrito and lead up the first 500' in Vasque Sundowners (these made the approach and exit pretty darned easy) with SMC crampons. We had four picket placements for the entire route and this was mainly to protect the one crevasse (to add some spice to the relatively easy trip) and to swap out leads. Last 200 feet had ice beneath two feet of soft snow. Excellent day and views. Accessing Sahale Arm from the SW slopes of Buckner had us ascending steep snow slopes with some funny tracks left by an apparently glissading mountain goat.
Posted Mar 7, 2003 12:20 am

tbnelsonRoute Climbed: North Face Date Climbed: July 15, 2002  Sucess!

tbnelson

Summited on a beautiful morning after bivying on the Sahale - Boston col. 1300 feet of good cramponing snow up to the summit and awesome views. We downclimbed our ascent route and then went back across the Boston Glacier and bagged Boston Peak.
Posted Jul 22, 2002 2:37 pm

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