Towards the end of our Gemenele loop (via a marked trail, past both Negru and Gemenele tarns) we ran into a bunch of scientists and rangers. After I'd explained there was no clear "Keep off" sign at the pass between the Sesele Mare and Mici, they let us off but told us to turn left and climb up the slope of the ridge between Retezat pass and Bucura Peak. On the way, we ran into a herd of chamois, and on top of that - and literally at the top of Bucura - we were whistled at by a marmot which showed up just a few meters away. That was a perfect day.
"As an adolescent I aspired to lasting fame, I craved factual certainty, and I thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life - so I became a scientist. This is like becoming an archbishop so you can meet girls."