Buni Zom mountain is one of the most unexplored mountain areas in the world. It is in NWFP region of Pakistan closed to Chitral city. It is climbed only 3 times and totally only 7 people reach the summit. The first ascent was in 1957 for a two party New Zealand expedition W.K.Berry and C.H.Tynadle. They reach the summit attempting the mountain from East (Gordoghan Zom glacier) and climbing first the north face of Buni Zom north after descent to north col and finally climbing the north ridge of the Main peak. In august of1975 a Japanese expedition where 3 members summit for South face and following the south west ridge. The third and last ascent was in 1979 from two Americans climbers, climbing the Southwest ridge.
The climbing of the mountain start from Harchin village 140 Km on the way from Chitral to Gilgit. Harchin is about 20 Km far from Mastuj, and you can go there only by jeep. For Harchin (2800m) village you have to trek 14Km to BC, first crossing Raman village that is from the other side of the Mastuj river and after passing from the last village named Phargam. The route to Base camp is the trek that cross Phargam An high Pass (5045m). Tha Base Camp is in Kulakmali area at 3950m altitude Total trek to BC is one full day or two days, and porter need two days and is two stages.
Red Tape - Information
Permits required as an peak higher than 6500 meter in Pakistan. The permits must be got about 3 months before the expedition. you have to contact with Ministry of Minorities, Culture, Sports, Tourism and Youth Affairs of Pakistan long time before to get the permit that it cost about 3000$ for 7 member expedition. Also a local permit required for the Chitral region, that it easily get it from Chitral's police station (no fees). This is just a registration for every tourist in Chitral.
You can ask info about the Buni Zom mountain from the local tour operator "Terichmir Travel" which is located in Chitral. The owner, Abdul Razaq is the one of the few guides that know very well Buni Zom and Tirich Mir area, his email address is terichmirtravel AT yahoo.com
When To Climb
The climbing period are not standard, and depend from year to year. The 3 ascents was in August and probably this is the best climbing period. Last year the attempts were in June-July but at this period there is a lot of snow.
The camps are free and you don’t need a special permit.
The Hindu Kush range runs parallel to the Oxus River in northwestern Pakistan and northeastern Afghistan. The highest peak is Tirich Mir, 7706m. There are 78 summits above 7000m and more than a hundred above 6000m. The Hindu Raj is located east of Hindu Kush, it is bounded by the Yarkhun River and split into eastern and central parts by the Mastuj River. The Hindu Raj has more than seventy summits above 6000m. In both of these ranges, high cliffs rise above river beds as a result of glacier erosion; the peaks rise above these cliffs which often obscure views of the peaks. The name Hindu Kush and Hindu Raj is generally interpreted as Killer of Hindus, but Commander James Rennel interpreted it as a corruption of Indian Caucasus, and this latter still enjoys some acceptance.
Words from Shiro Shirahata photo book, The Karakoram Mountains of Pakistan.
Posted Nov 20, 2005 10:09 am
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