Overview and Route DescriptionButt Ugly is the left to right arch that meanders up the far left side of the Ugly Wall, easily seen from the main meadow. This area is the easiest approach one of the bigger areas. To approach the Ugly Wall from the main meadow aka the center of the universe, follow a climbers trail to the right of the manzanita grove, staying close to other boulders and smaller outcrops, like the awesome Cowboy Arete 5.8+.
From the middle of the Ugly wall the trail will be behind the faces, with only small belay stations at the bottom amongst the manzanita. Continue to the left or west on the climber trail, going over some big boulders, to a clearing with the obvious start to the left of a route with 3 roofs
The 'route' walks you up a easy 5.1 ramp up to a ledge where you traverse left onto a big blocky patina slapped block, clip in to the right. On the block move up on patina plates that are kinda loose(5.6-)up onto the block where climbing gets more solid and fun, up a patina slab past a couple bolts to anchors. Route length is about 5 feet short half a rope length for a 60m. Rap off to ground. Anchors were in good shape. There are about 5 bolts on this route, with trad gear options. This route is good for a beginning leader, with the gear options.
FA ...and what's in a name?First ascent was Pat Brennan in the early 90's. Pat has forged many great routes in this area. His Climb "Pat's Gym 5.10b" is the route to do on the Ugly Wall.
Butt Ugly looks...Butt ugly! A good warmup or begining lead at the Ugly Wall.
Getting ThereSee Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles Main Page
Essential Gear-5 quickdraws, 2 regular and 3 with longer dogbones
-4 locking biners, cordalette
-2 slings, small and medium for horn-lassoing pro-potential
-Go crazy if you have small cams or TCU's or whatever you want if you are a beginning leader, you can stitch this thing up with some imagination.Know how to use em before you start climbing from experienced climbers or guides or yadayadayada...
-The desire to climb something butt ugly