OverviewThis route is located in Falling Rock Canyon, which splits Sugarloaf Peak from Ontario Peak (massif). This canyon ain't called Falling Rock Canyon for nothin'! Like most of the San Gabriels, most of the rock here is crumbly. A helmet as well as a vigilant belayer are required for climbs in this area.
[img:430612:aligncenter:medium:Looking down from just before the actual buttcrack]
Though most of the rock in the SG's isn't of good quality for technical climbing, there are some gems out there. The rock on the north side of Ontario Peak just out of the scree slopes, largely hidden from view by the alder trees in Icehouse Canyon, keeping it from most prying eyes.
Getting ThereThe route is located between the first and second waterfalls up Falling Rock Canyon. Head up Icehouse Canyon a short distance, until you see the canyon that heads between Ontario Peak and Sugarloaf Peak. Head across the stream and into that canyon. A short distance up on the left, you will encounter good quality rock. This "fin" of rock coming out of the canyon is the rock the route is located on.
Route DescriptionRoute starts off low with a good belay spot in the scree (base of red line). CLimber moves up gully, surmounts boulder on right, then heads up the pseudo-dihedral to the buttcrack, a large crack leading to a tree. one can protect off the tree at the end of the crack, and swing over to the left, pushing up off the thin ledge. Route ends up on top of some surfboards. A few 48" sewn runners are good for protecting this section. Views are quite cool.
[img:430615:aligncenter:medium:Topo, T is tree at end of crack.]
-Usual rack (granite) and half-dozen or so runners (several 48"s are great)
-Trekking pole(s) (very loose rock in the canyon)
-Medium-size pig/haul bag for hauling stuff upcanyon
*I felt that 2-way radios would have been helpful. It gets windy up top of the route, and I had a hard time communicating with my buddy Fritz (I am partially-deaf).
[img:430618:aligncenter:medium:Taco at the surfboards]
VideosFritz names the route, on the route, on camera, in the first video.
Youtube - Buttcrack 5.6