The Călimani Mountains are situated in the Eastern Carpathians and cover an area of about 2000 square km, running east-west for about 50 km. It is the youngest mountain range in Romania and the highest volcanic massif in the Carpathians. The main ridge of the Călimani Mountains forms the largest inactive crater of all in Europe, about 10 km in diameter.
The heart of the former volcano
For most of the second Millennium A.D., the Călimani Mountains were part of a broad, mountainous borderland between the Hungarian Kingdom/Principality of Transylvania (an ethnically mixed country) and the predominantly Romanian-speaking lands of Moldavia (ruled by Romanian princes) and Bucovina. It is no wonder that among the peaks of the Căliman/Kelemen one can find both Negoiul Unguresc/Magyar-Negoj and Negoiul Românesc/Román Negoj (the italicized words translate as Hungarian and Romanian, respectively). On the south the Călimani Mountains are bounded by the Mureş River, which separates them from the Gurghiu Mountains; and on the southeast by the Sec and Topliţa streams, beyond which the Giurgeu Mountains lie. The northern limits are drawn by the valley of the Transylvanian Bistriţa, which sets the massif apart from the Bârgau Mountains, and the Dorna valley, which separates it from the Suhard Mountains. Towards the west the Călimani Mountains slope gently into the Transylvanian Basin while their eastern limits make a transition towards the Bistriţei Mountains, which sit beyond the pass of Păltiniş and the basin of Bilbor.
Transcăliman road
The Călimani Mountains are a stratovolcano or a "composite volcano", which means that they formed as a result of successive eruptions during an extended period of time, through alternating layers of solidified lava and volcanic ash. It is the most developed unit of the Eastern Carpathians' "andesitic belt". Talking of the geological evolution, the volcanic activity began in the late Tertiary period (7 million years ago) and reached its climax in the Neocene (5 million years ago). This first phase of the active volcano was followed by a period of volcanic standstill, increased erosion and deposition. The second phase took place in the Upper Pliocene (2 million years ago). An inactive volcano with its partially emptied magma chamber was no longer able to hold the weight of the entire cone. Great tensions caused by differencies in pressure and weight created ring fractures. The whole volcanic surface with cold and solidified lava was colonized by vegetation. The third phase took place in the Quaternary period (Pleistocene) and produced andesites and basalts as well. A large part of the volcanic cone collapsed following the ring of fractures. The result was a caldera. The remains of the collapsed cone filled the emptied space of the former magma chamber. Rivers, rains, wind and temperature variations have modified the landscape ever since. The summits and valleys are the results of erosion of the cone's remains.
VIDEO by LukZem
The volcanic karst found here is a unique phenomenon which can hardly be seen elsewhere in Europe. However, the cave system of Negoiul Românesc (which used to feature a hall called "Chocolate Palace") was destroyed by the sulphur quarry opened in the 1970's. Inside the main crater there are several secondary craters: Pietricelul, Haitei Peak and Negoiul Românesc. Erosion has led to the formation of picturesque rock formations that have been designated geological reserves: Red Stones, Tihu, Rusca, Tămaulău.
Twelve Apostles basking in morning sunshine
The most beautiful section of the Călimani's rim is a group of bizarre, mysterious rocks called the Twelve Apostles. These fascinating rock formations include The Marshall, Lizard, Dragons, each of them meticulously chiseled from stone by natural processes. They make up an impressive gallery of figures, made of volcanic rocks 8-12 m tall. This place does have some special, almost magical charm.
The Marshal
Mysterious sunset
Vista
The most interesting part of the Călimani Mountains, adorned with the highest summits, is the rim of the huge, shaped like a horseshoe, caldera. This is the only spot within the Carpathian volcanic belt which bears traces of glaciation. The highest peak called Pietrosul, reaching an elevation of 2103 m, is the most spectacular bit of the main crater. Pietrosul and the second highest summit, Negoiul Unguresc (2081m), form a massive crest with a length of 4 km, which with its distinct alpine zone stands out from the forested background of the rest of the volcanic range. A very popular place, although much offset from the main crest, is the "God's Seat" ("Scaunul Domnului" in Romanian, "Istenszéke" in Hungarian), which offers fine panorama on the main ridge in good weather conditions.
Morning dream
The table below lists the highest as well as some other conspicuous summits.
Summit
Elevation in Meters
a.s.l.
Photo
A few words about
Pietrosul
2103
The highest summit in the Călimani Mountains, in their central part, inside the ridge oriented NW-SE, the most spectacular peak of the Călimani's crater. Red stripes from the Transcăliman road.
Negoiul Unguresc
2081
Just 2 km SE of Pietrosul. Distinct alpine tundra zone and bold relief - in stark contrast with the rest of the area. Red stripe trail.
Iezerul Călimanului
2031
In the eastern part of the caldera, about 2 km south of the summit of Călimanu Cerbului. Red dot trail from the village of Neagra Sarului.
Răţitiş
2021
In the east-central part, with a weather station on its top. N face shelters a natural forest of Spruce Arolla while the gently inclined S face presents diverse scenery of stone seas and dwarf conifers with Iezer Lake. Transcăliman road, red stripes/dots.
Călimanu Cerbului
2013
In the eastern part of the crater, 2 km north of Iezerul Călimanului. Blue dot trail from Gura Haitii village.
Pietricel
1993
Inside the main crater,1 km west of Răţitiş, covered with dwarf mountain pine. Red stripe/dot traverse.
Bistricioru
1990
In the Bistricioru Group, about 10 km west of the summit of Pietrosul. Red stripe from Dornisoara.
As for the faunistic interest, these mountains once used to be the safe refuge for free-ranging herds of European bison. The last one was reported to be shot in 1780. A new reintroduction project counts with Călimani NP as one out of five national parks in the Eastern Carpathians, where future free-ranging wisent should find their lost homeland.
The Mountain rescue team from Vatra Dornei can be contacted at these numbers:
0230-372767, 0230-375229, 0744-332378
Rescuers are on duty at the Meteo station at weekends.
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