Cabeza de Condor (Condoriri Group) Climber's Log
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[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
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| Silvio1973 | Genuinely sharp !  Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2007 | |
| Climbed with Ilona in 6 hours from base camp. Ok guys, the normal route to the top of Condoriri is simply sensational. Still you will need to keep your blood cool on the final ridge. It is very thin and sharp. I have the memory of a fantastic sunshine. The sun was red and perfectly round. Unfortunately I was just on the ridge and could not take any picture. | |
| Posted Aug 30, 2011 5:09 am | ||
| etai101 | climbers paradise Date Climbed: Apr 3, 2008 | |
| thought i would have more juice for la izkirda but the scree slope for hell too its tool from my knees | |
| Posted Dec 17, 2010 12:58 pm | ||
| Woodie Hopper | Normal Route Date Climbed: May 5, 2010 | |
| I attempted the Cabeza de Condor the day after summitting Pequeno Alpamayo. Although the conditions in the gulley weren´t very good, I topped out, but didn´t go for the ridge since it was in very bad shape and dangerous. One of my partners (Pedro) was hit in the back of the neck with a chunk of falling ice after the second rappel. The gulley in the upper half doesn´t have a lot of snow, is rather narrow and consists of mostly mixed climbing right now. Hopefully the conditions will be better soon! | |
| Posted May 7, 2010 6:48 pm | ||
| bledl | Ridge Route | |
| Exposed! Great climb! | |
| Posted Sep 1, 2009 6:40 pm | ||
| Miguel Angel Perez | Awesome Ridge! Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2008 | |
| Pretty scary ridge! Spectacular sunrise at the ridge with views of the sorrounding mountains and Titicaca Lake. Great Summit! | |
| Posted May 18, 2009 12:41 pm | ||
| TrevorMarrs | AH SCREE Date Climbed: Nov 6, 2008 | |
| Out of season climbing I dont think so, weather was perfect, the ridge was scary and I loved every minute of it.. However if I see another piece of scree ANYWHERE the crampons are going in the bin... | |
| Posted Nov 7, 2008 2:08 pm | ||
| kabernicola | normal route | |
| my first expedition, my first mountain outof europe. Two nights up in the morraine camp...mountain sickness....great memories | |
| Posted Jun 6, 2008 5:03 pm | ||
| Thomas Gurviez | normal route Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2007 | |
| Beautiful ascent, a lot of exposure on the ridge. Snowy and stormy weather after 9 AM, 20 or 30 cm of fresh snow above 5200 m, couloir and ridge in pretty good conditions 6 hours of ascent from the camp along the lake at 4800 m | |
| Posted Sep 21, 2007 3:32 pm | ||
| AlexeyD | Almost! | |
| Attempted the Cabeza via the normal route, spending a night at high camp. Conditions were generally decent, with stepped snow all the way up the couloir and on the ridge. Snow conditions on the ridge, however, were a bit sketchy, with loose sugar snow underneath a surface crust, which meant no effective means of protection, so we turned back about 200-300 feet below the summit. Still a great day, though! | |
| Posted Aug 1, 2007 2:25 pm | ||
| purdue22 | Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: July 10, 2005 | |
| Abnormally thin, dry conditions made this a close attempt. The scree-turned-45 degree dirt slope was a grind (maybe avoid w/ longer route around Austria, night at high camp). A few minor crevasse crossings (for now) and one major one that required a two-axe mantle. Main couloir is 1/3 dreamy nieve, 1/3 hard ice, 1/3 hellish loose rock. After surviving this, we went down b/c ridge above was loose rock, mostly void of snow. Overall, I wouldn't recommend this route right now (possibly better options than couloir exist on N. side of ridge), but it's doable w/ enough ice AND rock pro. | |
| Posted Jul 11, 2005 1:34 pm | ||
| Andinistaloco | Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: summer 2001 | |
| Beautiful climb and incredible exposure! Plus the route was in great condition to boot. About an hour from the top I started wishing I'd brought a partner. Watch your step! | |
| Posted Sep 7, 2004 12:41 am | ||
| gato | Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: June 15, 2004 | |
| Fantastic climbing with incredible exposure! Never climbed anything quite like that before. Should have taken more ice screws, but thanks to a fortuitous encounter on the summit ridge we were able to continue to the top. Bolivia rocks! | |
| Posted Jun 17, 2004 5:58 pm | ||
| b. | Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: June 15, 2004 | |
| Beautiful ridge! There was not much snow, and some good ice up high. Next time take more screws! A great summit and truly the most intense mountain route that I have done. | |
| Posted Jun 17, 2004 5:23 pm | ||
| ant morgan | Route Climbed: Condoriri Group Date Climbed: April 2000 | |
| Based ourselves near the lake for 8 nights and climbed Pequenyo Alpamayo, Illucion, Illucioncita and Piramide Blanca. An excellent aclimitisation session | |
| Posted May 4, 2004 9:43 pm | ||
| gilles debray | Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: May 154, 2003 | |
| "We first climbed PequeÒo Alpamayo in the same area, and then we succed in Condoriri. It was hard but great. We took Bolivian Journeys, the whole organization was amazing. Contact them boljour@ceibo.entelnet.bo www.bolivianjourneys.org It is on Sagarnaga 363" | ||
| Posted May 29, 2003 8:16 am | ||
| Elwood | Route Climbed: Was to attempt the normal route Date Climbed: July, 2002 | |
| I just wanted to sign, so that I could add a couple of photos from the area. Unfortunately, I was beat down by a bad stomach virus, & could only view the mountains from basecamp. Hopefully next time! | |
| Posted Feb 21, 2003 8:14 am | ||
| El Tigre Valderrama | Route Climbed: Normal Route, via the snow Gully Date Climbed: Summer 1999 | |
| Fantastic mountain, probably the best trade climb in Bolivia.Looking forward to repeat it in Summer 2003, and also to climb the Left and Rigth Wings and Ilusionsita. | |
| Posted Jun 21, 2002 4:46 am | ||
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