It is almost certain that the authors of Classic Dolomite Climbs, Kohler and Memmel, have not climbed the East Rib of the Campanile Dulfer. Their topo and route description contains several errors: the second pitch is 25m, a III, and should end after the minor down climb; the last pitch is the mental crux and is poorly protected. In between the two, the route can go most anywhere, just aim for the lunch ledge at the base of the tower proper and run full-length pitches. We found no fixed anchors. What is most distressing, and the reason why I am writing, is the egregious errors in the descent description. One cannot down climb from the top of the tower to the 10m rap station. 60-70m twin ropes are needed to bypass the 10m rap station and should be used, otherwise take a bolt kit since the 10m is a horror, two flexing rusty pitons (surely Dulfer vintage) with no way to back up the anchor. These are close to pulling and will kill everyone attached to the anchor. Once down in the bowels of the chimney, use the second double piton anchor and the third to rappel down to the obvious pedestal. The notch anchor doesn’t exist. Climb up the pedestal and descent the step gully to it’s end where begins a series of 10-40m rappels that eventually take one back to the base of the climb. These anchors are OK. Kohler and Memmel’s descent description is a bit of a wonder after the pedestal. From what we could tell, a rising traverse II-III would be needed to reach anything resembling a huge chockstone in the gully. Lastly, make sure no one is descending after your party since loose rocks rain down the length of the gully near every time one pulls their ropes. Regardless of the poor topo and route description, the Dulfer route is quite spectacular.
DANix - Jul 28, 2009 6:28 pm - Hasn't voted
Classic Dolomite Climbs Campanile Dulfer Route ErrorsIt is almost certain that the authors of Classic Dolomite Climbs, Kohler and Memmel, have not climbed the East Rib of the Campanile Dulfer. Their topo and route description contains several errors: the second pitch is 25m, a III, and should end after the minor down climb; the last pitch is the mental crux and is poorly protected. In between the two, the route can go most anywhere, just aim for the lunch ledge at the base of the tower proper and run full-length pitches. We found no fixed anchors. What is most distressing, and the reason why I am writing, is the egregious errors in the descent description. One cannot down climb from the top of the tower to the 10m rap station. 60-70m twin ropes are needed to bypass the 10m rap station and should be used, otherwise take a bolt kit since the 10m is a horror, two flexing rusty pitons (surely Dulfer vintage) with no way to back up the anchor. These are close to pulling and will kill everyone attached to the anchor. Once down in the bowels of the chimney, use the second double piton anchor and the third to rappel down to the obvious pedestal. The notch anchor doesn’t exist. Climb up the pedestal and descent the step gully to it’s end where begins a series of 10-40m rappels that eventually take one back to the base of the climb. These anchors are OK. Kohler and Memmel’s descent description is a bit of a wonder after the pedestal. From what we could tell, a rising traverse II-III would be needed to reach anything resembling a huge chockstone in the gully. Lastly, make sure no one is descending after your party since loose rocks rain down the length of the gully near every time one pulls their ropes. Regardless of the poor topo and route description, the Dulfer route is quite spectacular.