Same as ONE WAY SUNSET. The route takes the crack/corner above BUSTER CATTLEFIELD. Climb either the 1st pitch of ONE WAY SUNSET or CATTLEFIELD and belay at their common anchor bolts
This route was first climbed by Frank Sanders and Liana Kirk in July, 1989. This route is a 5-Star Classic Stem!! As the Best Protected, hard stemming climb on this rock, it should be on your Tower Itinerary!!
Pitch 1.(120 ft, 5.11b) -The Stem- From the bolted belay, two face moves traverse you left to the corner above Buster Cattlefield. Climb this exquisite Dihedral with delicate moves that are well protected. The initial 50 ft is the crux stem and is protected by 5 well placed bolts. The rest of the pitch yeilds to more conventional style and protection.Climb to the hanging belay at the big bolt anchor.
Finish. Rap, Rap, Rap....
Quickdraws for the bolts and small nuts and TCU's up to #1 Friend size. Sew it up!!
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Big Walley's description is total Sandbagging Sander's style. I've been on Buster's Cattlefield several times coming from above because the lack of any protection for the initial "delicate moves" on this dihederal.
Posted Jun 25, 2001 5:34 am
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