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Campanile di Val Fontana d'Oro (Golden Fountain Valley Needle)
Mountain/Rock

Campanile di Val Fontana d'Oro (Golden Fountain Valley Needle)

 
Campanile di Val Fontana d\'Oro (Golden Fountain Valley Needle)

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Vicenza, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.76471°N / 11.20571°E

Object Title: Campanile di Val Fontana d'Oro (Golden Fountain Valley Needle)

County: Veneto

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 5069 ft / 1545 m

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Sep 18, 2011 / Mar 29, 2014

Object ID: 747073

Hits: 2280 

Page Score: 86.37%  - 22 Votes 

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Overview

Campanile di Val Fontana d’Oro




Campanile di Val Fontana d’Oro - Golden Fountain Valley Needle - rising inside Monte Forni Alti Subgroup, is famous as the finest needle lying in Monte Pasubio Group, a fascinating prealpin group running along the border between Trento province in NE side and Vicenza province in SW side, close to Little Dolomites. Mountains full of history, just because in these places the First Mondial War fights. According with the late SOIUSA alpine and pre-alpine subdivision, the Little Dolomites and the Pasubio Group are now considered as a one group, taking the name of Little Dolomites. An interesting classic route on good quality “dolomia” runs on the SSW face of the pinnacle, gaining its airy summit with moderate climbing difficulties.

First ascent: V. Costa – F. Thaler – V. Pozzer 1905


Campanile di Val Fontana d'Oro, Soglio Rosso and Soglio d'Uderle
Soglio d'Uderle, Soglio Rosso and Campanile di Val Fontana d'Oro

Campanile di Val Fontana d'Oro (Gold Fountain Valley Needle) Bortolan-Padovan Route
Campanile di Val Fontana d'Oro, Bortolan-Padovan SSO Route

Getting There

Road access


Trentino Alto-Adige side (NE side)

From Rovereto mt. 201 follow SS46 rising along the green valley named Vallarsa and reaching San Colombano – here is situated an ancient hermitage with the same name - Valmorbia mt. 649 - a little village celebrated by the poet Eugenio Montale in “Ossi di Seppia” - Anghebeni mt. 632, Foxi mt. 674, Raoxi mt. 724 and finally Pian delle Fugazze Pass mt. 1162 (km. 26 from Rovereto). From the pass follow the road to Vicenza, going down from some kilometers and reaching the locality named Ponte Verde. From Ponte Verde leave the main road and turn to left, following the road to Colle Xomo. After about 1 km. turn to left again and follow a gravel forestal road (CAI white and red marks), not very good in upper part.
Before the road is becoming worse, turn to left following for few meters another road - going down - and park the car nearby a wide meadow.


Veneto side (SW side)

From Vicenza follow SS46 to Schio mt. 209, rising along Val Leogra and reaching Valli del Pasubio mt. 342, S. Antonio mt. 567, lower Ponte Verde and upper Ponte Verde mt. 901. Turn to right following the narrow road to Colle Xomo. After about 1 km. turn to left and follow an unpaved forestal road (CAI white and red marks), not very good in upper part.
Before the road is becoming worse, turn to left following for few meters another road - going down - and park the car nearby a wide meadow.

Valmorbia, the paint dedicated to the poet Eugenio Montale
Valmorbia, the paint dedicated to the poet Eugenio Montale

Little Dolomites Flora
Little Dolomites Flora


Valmorbia

by Eugenio Montale (Nobel Prize for Literature) – from “Ossi di Seppia”

Valmorbia, discorrevano il tuo fondo
fioriti nuvoli di piante agli asòli.
Nasceva in noi, volti dal cieco caso,
oblio del mondo

Tacevano gli spari, nel grembo solitario
non dava suono che il Leno roco.
Sbocciava un razzo su lo stelo, fioco
lacrimava nell’aria

Le notti chiare erano tutte un’alba
e portavano volpi alla mia grotta.

Routes Overview

Bortolan - Padovan Route report


Summit altitude: mt. 1545
Difficulty: AD sup., III, III+, IV UIAA
Equipment: belays equipped with cemented anchors, some normal pegs along the pitches
Climbing length: 160 mt.
Exposure: SSW
First ascent: G. Bortolan – F. Padovan 1927
Starting point: forestal road to Raspanche

Campanile di Val Fontana d’Oro Bortolan-Padovan Route – the Normal one of the needle – is a classic and frequented climb, well equipped and on good “dolomia”. Climbing way is very pleasant, mainly inner, along chimneys and cracks. The environment is prealpin and remarkable.

Campanile di Val Fontana d'Oro
Campanile di Val Fontana d'Oro
Approach gully
Approach gully


Approach - From the parking go back few meters to the marked road and follow it as far as a ford (about 500 meters from the parking). Turn to right, following the track to Val Fontana d’Oro (sign 322). The track rises steeply along some wooded slopes, heading towards Soglio Rosso and our well evident needle. After half an hour leave the main track and turn to left, going up along a rocky gully - rather wide at first and skirting the North side of the peak – then becoming very narrow and skirting the West side of the peak. Scramble up the gully, rising steeply and leading to Forcella della Teleferica, a narrow rocky saddle with some war works, between Campanile di Val Fontana d’Oro on the left-hand side and Soglio Rosso on the right-hand side. Go down 5 mt. in the opposite side. Anchor.

L1 – Climb the chimney-bottom, then its right edge, reaching a terrace (II, III+, peg). Now climb a crack
(IV, pegs,) leading to a grassy slopes and to the belay. II, III+, IV, 25 mt.
L2 – Up on easy ground towards a large chimney with a blocking rock in its upper section, rising between the needle’s face on the left and a detached pinnacle on the right Climb the chimney-bottom, then its right edge, pass the block and belay on a little terrace on S Face. III, IV, 25 mt.
L3 – Climb straightly the slab over the belay – crux – then climb a bit slantways towards left along the slab with some thin cracks leading to a narrow vegetated ledge. Traverse left below a characteristic little pine tree – in italian “mugo”, reaching a small shoulder on SW side. IV+, IV, III, 30 mt., pegs.
L4 – Straightly over the belay climb a fine crack, at least slanting toward left and reaching a little terrace. Up straightly along solid grey rocks, reaching a little grassy ledge. IV, III, 20 mt., pegs.
L5 – Traverse 10 mt. left along the ledge, then climb up along solid grey rock slants toward right, leading to a good stance below the top. II, III, 20 mt.
L6 – A track towards right - along a ledge surrounding the summit peak – is leading to the magnificent flat top. I, 15 mt. Summit bell and Summit Book.

The Pasubio group peculiar pre-alpine environment
The peculiar Pasubio pre-alpine environment
Second abseil
The second abseil



Descent: from the top scramble down to reach last belay. From here four abseils (20 mt.+ 20 mt.+ 50 mt., a short scramble to reach the first belay, then last 25 mt. abseil along the starting chimney) lead to Forcella della Teleferica. An eventual other 30 mt. abseil is possible from Forcella della Teleferica down along the upper part of the narrow gully.

Other routes:
- BALASSO BROTHERS ROUTE VII, VI obbl., 300 mt.
- CARLESSO S ROUTE TO FORCELLA DELLA TELEFERICA IV, V, 120 mt.
- SOUTH FACE V, VI, 230 mt.
- ENE ROUTE (First climbers’ route) II, 200 mt.
- NE CHIMNEY IV, 150 mt.
- NE FACE V, VI, A1 200 mt.
- NORD CHIMNEY IV, 190 mt.
- WEST FACE III, IV, 140 mt.

Red Tape

No particular restriction in climbing and hiking

Where to stay

- Rifugio Balasso m. 983 - Valli del Pasubio (Vicenza)

- Alberghi Pian delle Fugazze m. 1163 s.l.m. - Passo Pian delle Fugazze, Vallarsa (Trento)

Climbing Bortolan-Padovan Route
Bortolan-Padovan Route
Ringing the summit bell
Ringing...
The summit bell
The summit bell

When to climb

Best season goes from May to October

Meteo

DOLOMITI METEO

Guidebooks and maps

 
Campanile di Val Fontana d Oro map
 
“Arrampicate scelte nelle Piccole Dolomiti e Pasubio” by Guido Casarotto - CIERRE edizioni
“Piccole Dolomiti – Pasubio” by Gianni Pieropan - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI

Images