OverviewEven among the sandbag-iness that Seneca is known for, there are still some routes that new leaders to Seneca or newer leaders in general can cut their teeth on. Candy Corner is one of them. It is steep yet moderate with a few tricky moves thrown in there halfway up the route.
Getting ThereFrom the parking lot, cross the low bridge across the creek and take Roy Gap Road for about .25-.5 miles to the point at which the creek is directly on your left. There should be blue trail blazes at a crossing in the river along with some strategically placed stones to help you across. If you look up at that point, you should be able to spot the lovingly named "Stairmaster."
Start up the Stairmaster for about 75-100 ft. or so until you reach the base of the wooden stairs that lead you towards the start of Ecstasy Jr. There should be a trail to your right (if you are facing the stairway) that heads around the corner. Follow it around and up the boulder pile. You are now in the South End section of Seneca. You will pass a big cave on your left. You will also pass the start to Simple J. Malarkey and Tony’s Nightmare, and Totem. Around the arête that starts Tony’s Nightmare and Totem, you will be in another open area. Candy Corner is the steep left-facing corner on the outside of the wall ahead of you, the even steeper-looking one on the inside is Ye Gods and Little Fishes (often referred to as just Ye Gods, 5.8, and also a great climb). The open area is officially the “Dropzone,” so don your helmet, especially if there are parties above climbing Skyline Traverse.
There is plenty of space to flake out and set up a belay right at the base of the climb--no awkward slabs.
NB: These cold shuts are shared with the finish of Ye Gods.
Pitch 2: If you feel like continuing up the South End, go to the back corner of the belay ledge and climb up until you link up with the Skyline Traverse.
Essential Gear- 60m rope
- Standard trad rack, though you can supplement some tricams if they are not normally in your Seneca repertoire. There are some horizontal cracks (unlike most of the vertical ones at Seneca) that will take the tricams.
- Your normal alpine climbing kit.
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