Upper portion of the route looking at the 3rd and 4th clips.
An often overlooked and rarely busy climb, this short 4 bolt route is slightly overhung, pockety, and pumpy. A really fun climb that is beta intensive and a good way to practice on finger strength. This route was first put up 1988 and was FAd by its creator Mike Johnson.
North Gateway as seen from 'Canyman'.
Once you are in the Garden of the Gods, it is easiest to get to this route by parking at the main lot to the northeast of 'North Gateway Rock' and the 'Tower of Bable'. Follow the trail south past 'North Gateway' and at the junction follow a clear climbers path to the base of 'South Gateway'. Keep following this trail south and you will find the route that starts in the deep gully by the main 'Drug Wall'. The route to the left is Candyman (10d) and the route to the right is The Deal (11d).
As always, please register with the Garden of the Gods visitor center. It is completely free and is good for one calendar year. This lets the park know how many climbers there are and allows them to get funding for the maintainance and upgrading of anchors and climbs!!! Thanks!
Typically holds on the route.
I will not give a beta spray here and suss the route for you, but let's just say that it is pockety, pumpy and often sandy. Beta is key here since some holds that appear good are not good at all. Only 45', there is one bolt and three pitons to a brand new anchor, (courtesy of Petzl and Rock&Ice Magazine.)
Belay Station for 'Candyman'.
Make sure you are careful clipping the 2nd bolt since you could hit the rock wall behind you if you blow as well as clipping the 4th bolt, which is slightly run out and could have a dangerous fall.
The look one gets after a happy redpoint!
Four draws and something for the anchor. Since the route is only 45', almost any rope out there can handle this line. Helemt might be good to have if you think you will fall.
[img:344468:aligncenter:medium:The look one gets after a happy redpoint!]
"A hundred and forty million years ago a creature struggled to escape the hostile horizontal world. It became lean and strong and developed into a magnificent climber. Then, driven by sucess and the gear of evolution, it developed the feather. For the father of the modern bird, downclimbing had become a thing of the past."