This spectacular hike is known for its many arches and gigantic red and bluff colored sandstone walls, as well as the impressive views from atop the Reef. This is a partial loop hike of 9 miles and it will take most of the day to drive to the trailhead and complete the hike. A standard car can make it to the trailhead, but the hike is extended to 15 miles round trip without 4WD. Elevation gain is 830 feet and mild exposure will be encountered.

Bring plenty of food, water and provisions, and be sure your vehicle is in good working order, because this hike is in an isolated setting that makes nowhere look crowded. Camping in the area can be done if you do not think you can complete the hike and drive in a day.

The Burr Trail Road cannot be maneuvered with trailers in tow. Be sure to consult with Park personnel about conditions of the Notom and Burr Trail roads, as well as the Upper Muley Twist Trail before proceeding. Do not execute this hike if stormy weather is impending.

Getting There

Drive eastward out of the Park and turn right, due south, on the Notom Road, which is paved but soon becomes dirt and gravel. Views of the Reef from this road are very impressive. You’ll be driving along the Reef’s seemingly endless length for 35 miles. At a triangular junction marked with a sign, turn right and follow the Burr Trail Road as it enters the Reef in a tight box canyon, then climbs the Reef via a series of switchbacks. After 2 miles, turn right on the Upper Muley Twist Canyon road. 4WD vehicles can proceed another 3 miles up the Muley Twist road to the parking area and trailhead for the Strike Valley Overlook (1/2 mile round trip). The road is not difficult, but high clearance is needed in several spots.
BURR TRAIL ROAD MAP ON TOPOZONE Thanks to SP member Dean for providing this link!

The Route

Proceed north up Muley Twist Canyon. This is a casual walk on a gravel stream bed, with occasional narrow spots that are fun to scramble through. At 1.7 miles, you’ll arrive at Saddle Arch. Be aware of arches sneaking up on you, going into the canyon AND coming back out! And these are BIG arches, too!

At Saddle Arch you’ll note a sign indicating the rim route. The route is reportedly more obvious if you leave the canyon and follow the rim route at Saddle Arch, but executing the route by continuing up the canyon is not difficult. This route description continues up the canyon, but executing the route in the opposite direction will work just as well.

Proceed up the canyon approximately 1.5 miles and look sharp for cairns leading steeply out of the canyon on the right. If you end up in a tight narrows section, you’ve missed the turn. The trail, eroded in places, climbs steeply up through packed red sand and over slick rock. Narrow ledge traverses and climbing around pinion trees will keep you looking for the next cairn. Take your time and you’ll see them.

The trail will reach a level area and make a hard right up a shallow draw as your climb to the top of the Reef continues. Reaching the Reef crest is not difficult, and soon you’ll enter a vast Navajo sandstone slick rock area. A sign perched atop a slick rock dome will be your turning point back to the south. This next stretch is a spectacular scenic spectacle as you have unobstructed views from the top of the Reef.

Cairns are abundant across the flat sections, but the route will veer to the right and traverse and climb some sloped sandstone, staying near the crest of the Reef. Good tread will come in handy through here. The route undulates through shallow drainages and occasionally drops onto the steeper western face of the Reef above the canyon you just hiked up. Exposure is mild and views are breathtaking. Nonetheless, watch your step.

Descending a mild notch and traversing more level terrain, the route will arc west and descend via mostly gentle terrain back down into Muley Twist Canyon below Saddle Arch, which is visible as you start your descent.

Retrace your route back to your vehicle.

Upper Muley Twist Canyon Route Map

Additional Photos in Chronological Order

This arch, high on the west flank of the canyon, is the next arch you will see after Saddle Arch.

This large arch is in a narrow side canyon and is the second arch beyond Saddle Arch. It's easy to miss, so watch for it in the side canyon's entrance on your left.

Slickrock is traversed as you climb out of the canyon above a narrow grotto.

Narrows below you as you exit the canyon. Do not go into these narrows.

Bizarre and complex knobs on the west side of the canyon are seen as you climb up onto the Reef Crest.

Strike Valley on the east side of Capitol Reef, as seen from the Reef Crest.

Muley Twist Canyon, as seen from the Reef Crest.

Muley Twist Canyopn and Saddle Arch at the beginning of the descent back into the canyon from the Reef Crest.

Huge, unnamed arch located in the early portion of the hike. If you miss it, you'll see it on your return.

Another large arch in Muley Twist Canyon.

Double Arch (noted as such on the area topo), which looms above you during the early stretches of the canyon.

Camping

Car and tent camping is permitted in the area with the acquisition of a FREE camping/back country permit obtained from the Visitor's Center in Fruita.

Getting Out of There

After your hike, you can return the way you came (90 minutes back to Torrey), or if your plans dictate otherwise, you can continue on the Notom Road to the Bullfrog Marina at Lake Powell. An alternate route back to Torrey can also be done from this spot, and it is a dramatic, scenic drive.

Proceed west on the Burr Trail road. The west boundary of the Park is reached in short order. Elevation is gradually gained as you enter the Escalante-Grand Staircase National Monument. This drive through a lot of nowhere will become very spectacular and beautiful. The road will climb some bluffs and then descend down a winding canyon, then wind its way through buff colored buttes and lush river draws, finally arriving at the isolated hamlet of Boulder on Scenic Highway 12. Turn right and take H12 back to Torrey (unless you’re bound for Bryce, in which case, you turn left). The paved road quickly climbs the south flank of Boulder Mountain and the views of Mount Ellen and Capitol Reef far below will be astounding. This drive is unbelievable in the fall. From Boulder, it takes about 90 minutes to return to Torrey. The extra time on the road is worth it if you can do it. You won’t be disappointed!

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