Capacete is a huge granite block with 2200m located at N side of Três Picos . This mountain is very climbed, with some classicals routes like Rofolfo Chermont and CERJ.
Some routes in the NE side reach 600m verticals. The summit is flat, with some water sources in the W side.
The CERJ route or North Face - the most famous route in Capacete - was completed in 1970 by climbers of the CERJ (Centro Excursionista do Rio de Janeiro). That conquest was a standard and a model to the created of others routes in Salinas district until nowadays.
Getting ThereTake a car or regular buses to Nova Friburgo town. From Rio de Janeiro, around 160 km separates the city from Tres Picos State Park. Salinas Valley is the last district before you reach the mountains. So, if you want to buy any complement. do it there. From there , take the way to Tres Picos without asphalt, follwing the way to IBELGA School, at the right sido of the road croosing Salinas Valley.
The way sequence to arrive Tres Picos ( From Rio de Janeiro )
Rio de Janeiro - Cross Rio-Niterói bridge ( 14 km ) - Niterói - Take BR-101 North - Itaboraí - Take RJ-116 ( Rota 116 ) - Cachoeiros de Macacu - Nova Friburgo - Take RJ-122 to Teresópolis - km30 ( turn to Salinas valley at left ) - Conquista District - Santa Cruz District - São Lourenço District - Turn to right to IBELGA School - The end of the road = Tres Picos camping.
To get the trailhead for the routes, you should to turn back till the last house before Deuses Valley, when as possible to see a big and a round stone, continues by this way. Some trails to the right side, take you to the great east wall. The end of this trail, is on the base of Pico Menor. Sometimes, after the rains, the trail could be closed by the vegetation.
When to ClimbApril to October Season: Cold, dry and the days are much more clearly ;
November to March Season: Hot, rainy and the high humidity causes cloud cap.
CampingThere are some campings near to Capacete like Republica Três Picos and José Augusto Camping.
Capacete RoutesRoute Graduation Capacete – 2200m
Rodolfo Chermont 3º IVsup (A1/VIsup) E1 East Face
Sérgio Jacob 5º E3 East Face
Batman Nunca Mais 5º V A0 E3 North Face
Beco da Coruja 6º E3 East Face
CERJ 5º VIsup (A1/VIsup) E2 North Face
Colé Cumpadi 4º VI E3 East Face
Devaneios 6º VIIa East Face
Fata Morgana 5º V E3 North Face
Variante Giuliano IVsup North Face
Variante Insetos 5º E3 North Face
Meninos Perdidos 5º V E5 North Face
Os Quatro Inimigos 5º East Face
Pança de Mamute 5º E4 North Face
Roberta Groba 5º Vsup E3 North Face
Samba do Crioulo Doido 5º Vsup E4 North Face
Sólidas Ilusões 5º V E5 North Face
Ura-Ura Rapaz 5º VI E4 North Face