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Capitol Peak Climber's Log

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Kiefer"Cleaver Buttress"  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2012

Kiefer

I VASTLY under-estimated the difficulty of this arete/buttress located on Capitol's eastern side...approached from Pierre Lakes Basin. We (ripper333 and I) concluded a rating of 5.8
Some spots were insanely exposed, the ridge direct is not possible unless you're a proficient 5.11-5.12 climber. We even had to rap a small section.
An INTENSE climb. Made the standard "Knife Ridge" a virtual sidewalk.
Posted Jul 19, 2012 1:47 am

Matt LemkeStandard ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2012

Matt Lemke

Very fun scramble. Knife edge no where near as bad as I was led to believe. Solid scramble. Did with Josh
Posted Jul 11, 2012 10:56 pm

Josh LewisGreat Scramble  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2012

Josh Lewis

Definitely one of the better scrambles of Colorado. The knife edge was easy going. The mountain itself is good to look at from Capitol Lake. I would recommend this peak to a friend traveling in the area.
Posted Jul 11, 2012 3:34 am

blueshadeAwesome Scramble  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 11, 2012

blueshade

2nd attempt at Capitol due to a new snowfall late season last year.

Solo, long dayhike, about 18 hours door to door from GJ.

Didn't want to descend into the basin on the other side of the saddle, so figured what the hell? Climbed the ridge proper from the saddle for some great scrambling and some nice knife edge and exposure.

Capitol's NE ridge looked intimidating from K2 (as did the ridge to K2 itself, but none of it is as steep as it looks) and so avoided the ridge following cairned routes to the left. Turned out to be tedious and, in my opinion, unnecessary. Followed the ridge direct down almost the entire way, except for a small bypass on the steepest part a couple hundred feet below Capitol.

The upper reaches of Capitol is a scrambling fest where you can "choose your own adventure" and make it as easy or hard as you want.

Highly recommended but not for the faint of heart. New respect for CO peaks after a trip to the Sierras last year.
Posted Jun 18, 2012 2:26 pm

noahs213Winter Ascent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jan 9, 2012

noahs213

It ain't easy in winter. Whole different ball game. North Face looks really sweet with snow....inviting....
Posted Jan 12, 2012 1:57 am

xpdaCapitol  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 29, 1997

xpda

Solo
Posted Oct 29, 2011 12:56 pm

Ted Eliason18 hr RT  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2007

Ted Eliason

A long day, but good early fall weather.
Posted Oct 13, 2011 3:02 pm

gordonyeNW Buttress Direct Start  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2011

gordonye

My first Colorado 14er accomplished thanks to Dirk's expert leading! We climbed this beautiful line by belaying 5 full pitches plus a few short sections (out of the 13 standard pitches in the topo), and simul-climbing the rest. Aside from me pulling off hundreds of pounds of loose rock in pitch 12, the ascent was fairly smooth sailing. Descent was another matter - the "Knife Ridge" route was very long, convoluted and terribly loose, fortunately we had other climbers showing the way.
Posted Sep 6, 2011 10:41 pm

DigglerFINALLY!!!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2011

Diggler

Another great climb & peak w/ G- at this rate, what will there be left for us to climb, man??!! Northwest buttress was everything I could have expected (which was hard, as I had a hard time knowing WHAT to expect).

Left campsite ~6.00. Saw a large fox running across our path, & heard elk bugling in the distance as approaching, which was also really cool. Got to the base, & waited on another party to get past loose 2nd pitch before starting. Finally got on the rock 9ish.

First pitch quite enjoyable, with solid rock & fun crux. P2 was fun, & loose enough to be thought-provoking & require care as to not knock stuff down on Gordon. Unroped until shortly after Unicorn Spire. I think that the next belayed pitch (we did a fair bit of simul-ing) was shortly before the Rotten Spire- fun climbing on good rock that was a little thin. By the time we got to the notch above the Upper Spire, it was obvious how clear the route was (in retrospect of course- everything was so massive early on, that it didn't seem obvious at the time). Not so obvious where to go after Upper Spire notch- seemed like about 5 different roofs, numerous dihedrals, & no obvious 'crack systems' directly above belay. Not sure if the path (roof to clear) was the "right" one, but it was SUPER loose, as described by all the descriptions I'd read (I somehow managed to avoid knocking anything off (good thing, as G was right below belaying!), Gordon cleared off a couple hundred pounds (estimated) of loose shite for the next party :) . Terrain above the roof (1 full pitch, & a little bit o' simuling) was pretty mellow (easy 5th), & we summited shortly thereafter (~14.30).

Had the summit to ourselves for a bit (amazing considering the masses that had ascended unto the summit earlier), enjoying stellar views of the Elks & beyond. Thank God the weather ended up holding out for us- I shudder to think of being on either the NE ridge (at least between the knife-edge & the summit) or the NW buttress in a storm...

Being drained from climb, the descent (which neither of us had done before) was long, loose, & tedious. Took us about as long to descend as it did to do the buttress (left the summit @ 15.07, got back to camp above lake shortly before 20.00)!

Overall, a great climb, peak, & day. Glad this could be your introductory Colorado Rockies climb, G. A special experience for me, too, bro.
Posted Sep 6, 2011 4:42 pm

REMCapitol Lake Trailhead
Date Climbed: Oct 14, 1979

REM

I stopped @ "K2." My climbing partner D. Schnell summited.
Posted Jun 6, 2011 10:35 pm

Up2zmtnsFun  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010
soaking wet afternoon approach, bivvy by capitol lake, summit and out the next day
Posted Mar 19, 2011 1:54 pm

metal4lyf3rd time's the charm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 14, 2010

metal4lyf

We had success on our third attempt in one week. Lol
Posted Mar 14, 2011 8:04 am

mattpayne11Good times were had by all  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2010

mattpayne11

Amazing trip. Loved the airy climb. One of the best challenges to date. Probably Top 5 for me. Read the trip report if you want to see some cool photos and video of the knife edge.
Posted Feb 4, 2011 4:28 pm

vetmikeLong approach, loose route, totally worth the view  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2010

vetmike

Climbed Capitol with Matt Payne from 100summits.com and Travis Arment. Very steep climb, some really loose stuff. Took a direct route to avoid rockfall from other parties, glad we did. Amazing view from the top. Trip report: http://intheexpanse.com/mountaineering/capitol-peak-2010
Posted Feb 4, 2011 10:59 am

climbingfurrymy first class 4  Sucess!

climbingfurry

This was my first class 4 mountain in the 90s when i did it. It will always have a special place in my heart.
Posted Jan 24, 2011 10:08 am

Jeremy HakesBig one!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 8, 2001

Jeremy Hakes

Pretty awesome climb.
Posted Jan 21, 2011 10:57 pm

KesslerCapitol  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2010

Kessler

At age eight, I climbed it with my dad, seven year old Yunona, Rostislav and Aiden. It was my favorite climb to date.
Posted Jan 18, 2011 8:36 am

centrifugesecond times a charm  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2010

centrifuge

on a blue bird day this time up! couldnt have been happier
Posted Jan 13, 2011 12:36 am

Panthera unciaAwesome experience!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2009

Panthera uncia

Climbed the northeast ridge. Made it safely off the mountain before a bad hail/thunderstorm rolled in. It's really an amazing and beautiful peak! How do people ski that thing?!
Posted Dec 22, 2010 5:53 pm

thatnissanguyperfect weather on the knife edge
Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2010

thatnissanguy

Talk about tedious! Beautiful airy scrambling, great summit. Be forewarned, boulder field before K2 is treacherous ; )
Posted Dec 18, 2010 8:21 pm

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