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Captain Fist
Route

Captain Fist

 
Captain Fist

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.8 (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Ed F

Created/Edited: May 23, 2006 / May 23, 2006

Object ID: 195772

Hits: 1147 

Page Score: 85.9% - 1 Votes 

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Overview

Captain Fist ascends the left side of the "tilted tower" on Arch Rock. It's a nice one-pitch rock route.

Getting There

Arch Rock (see main page) is 4.0 miles from the kiosk at the entrance to the canyon. Parking is scarce. There is a great spot suitable for one or two cars at the base of the crag. When that is full, park 1/4 mile upriver at a campground.

Route Description

Approach



Hike from the road on use trails straight up to the rock wall. This may involve some scrambling and/or bushwhacking. There are a million trails here, so just pick one and keep going. When you arrive at the crag, Captain Fist is to the right of Hollow Flake, and begins under a big roof.

The Climb



One pitch. See signature photo. You'll find out why this route is called Captain Fist on your first move. To protect your first 20 feet of climbing, you'll need to put your largest cam straight up into the crack in the roof above you. This is tough if you're not about 6'2" or bigger. You can always run it out around the roof if you can't reach. Once above and to the left of the roof, follow crack systems to a two bolt anchor. Rappel off or continue above on other routes.

Essential Gear

A big cam. Several medium stoppers, cams, and hexes.

External Links

Add External Links text here.

Images

Captain Fist (5.8)Arch Rock Routes



""Even after years of intimate contact and search this quality of strangeness in the desert remains undiminished. Transparent and intangible as sunlight, yet always and everywhere present, it lures a man on and on, from the red-walled canyons to the smoke- blue ranges beyond, in a futile but fascinating quest for the great, unimaginable treasure which the desert seems to promise. Once caught by this golden lure you become a prospector for life, condemned, doomed, exalted. One begins to understand why Everett Reuss kept going deeper and deeper into the canyon country, until one day he lost the thread of the labyrinth; why the oldtime prospectors, when they did find the common sort of gold, gambled, drank and whored it away as quickly as possible and returned to the burnt hills and the search. The search for what? They could not have said; neither can I; and would have muttered something about silver, gold, copper -anything as a pretext. And how could they hope to find this treasure which has no name and has never been seen? Hard to say -and yet, when they found it, they could not fail to recognize it. Ask Everett Ruess.""   --Ed Abbey   

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