Took the Alternate Route Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2013
Not prepared the climb on ice above the Whitney Glacier, so we took the alternate route around to the south where we came out at the top of West Face Gully. The rock was tough going though, and we had to use a rope to scale one bad spot about 15 feet high. Besides traversing through the rock, its a great route. The views to the north were worth it. We were glad we opted for it instead of the West Face Gully. The trail into Hidden Valley was tough going however. 3 miles from Bunny Flat and took us 4 hours to get there. Found a nice spot to camp above the valley at 10,0000.
Traverse above Whitney bergschrund Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2012
With Ann. A very mellow route, until the crux traverse above the Whitney glacier bergschrund. Fantastic, exposed climbing above the schrund on 50-55deg snow/ice. Nothing crazy, but falling would be bad. Not a snow slog on that section - be comfortable with frontpointing, exposure and two-tool techniques.
Climbed along with Shastina and from their up the views cannot be beat- a bit tired of the approach to Hidden Valley though. Very icy for a short stretch above the bergshrund even this early in the season, perhaps the scetchiest bit of terrain I have done on Shasta thus far. Not too bad really though, didn't bother to rope up and could have made it easy by stepping onto and off the glacier a short ways, but wanted to stick more to the ridge this trip.