Cascade Pass/Sahale Glacier

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Cascade Pass/Sahale Glacier

Complete Southwest Ridge

Quien Sabe Glacier

Cascade Pass/Sahale Glacier

Page Type: Route

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 48.48959°N / 121.03955°W

GPX File: Download GPX » View Route on Map

Route Type: Hiking, Mountaineering, Scrambling

Season: Summer, Fall

Time Required: One to two days

Difficulty: Grade I glacier; short class 4

Grade: II

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- 15 Votes

Page By: Josh Lewis

Created/Edited: Sep 11, 2002 / Aug 21, 2011

Object ID: 156930

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Page Score: 87.68% - 11 Votes

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Approach - The Hike Up to Cascade Pass

Depending on what time of year you come here, makes the difference on where you park. If the road is in good conditions (this road is known to get washout's almost yearly) you can start at the mile maker 23 which is the Cascade Pass trailhead. If you come here in earlier season it is often closed at mile marker 20 which adds 6 more miles round trip.

Biking to the Trailhead of Sahale

Eldorado Peak and the Triad from The Parking Lot

The views from the parking lot are amazing without even taking a step out of the car. Looming above to the South is Johannesburg Mountain which in early season don't be surprised if you hear avalanches coming down, I know I certainly have! The trail starts out nice and easy for the first half mile or so until it starts switch backing. Don't be fooled by the maps, there are plenty of them to Cascade Pass alone. On the way up there are clearings through the trees which offer great views of the Cascade Valley and of the Triplets as well as Mixup Peak. Once your out of the woods the switch backs eventually stop and you traverse the bottom edge of Sahale Arm until you get to Cascade Pass. Be warned, when avalanche danger is high this is not the place to be hanging out!

Johannesburg Mountain Through the Trees

At the Pass you are rewarded with great views of Magic Mountain, Mix Up Peak, and the Stehekin valley.

The Hike up Sahale Arm

From here go left (North) up the Sahale Arm trail which switch backs up the edge of Sahale Arm. Once the switch backs are over the rest of the travel to the Sahale Glacier is a nice ridge walk. The views get even better and better as you advance towards the upper part of the Sahale Glacier, big time peaks like Bonanza, Formidable, Glacier Peak, Eldorado, Boston, and many more come into view.

Looking Down Sahale Arm

Cascade Valley With Beams of Light

To the Summit

One of the Many Crevasses

Michael on the Edge of the Glacier

From the top of Sahale Arm, ascend up the Sahale Glacier up and right directly toward the summit block. Although few actually do rope up, in general glacier travel it is still a good idea considering that crevasses do form in later season and I've traveled over a hidden one on this route. As your nearing the top of the glacier be sure to head to the right edge of the summit block. For those unfamiliar with Sahale, pay close attention to the cross over section that goes onto the east side of Sahale (near the summit). It is debatable whether it is class 3/4 to the summit block from here which you may encounter loose rock. In early season be very careful on the ending, I climbed up this with loose snow and it ended up being the most terrifying experience I have ever had as a result considering that below you are big cliffs and my ice axe would not have saved me if I had slipped.

Ascending the Top part of the Route

The Summit Rock

Also be sure to be careful on the descent from this route, one of my friends climbing partners got injured on this route on Sahale Arm.

Descending near the Upper Glacier

For those who did bring a rope, don't worry there are multiple repel loops at the summit.

Repelling off the South Side of Sahale

Essential Gear

This route is not very technical although I would recommend bringing basic mountaineering gear as well as glacier gear. A good majority of people who go up this route do it unroped, but don't be fooled this is still a glacier and certainly has crevasses on the route. You may also want to bring a small rack of nuts and a few slings for the last few hundred feet of the climb. I've made the mistake of going up this route when snow conditions were sloppy and ditched the rope a few hundred feet from the summit, which became the most scariest trip I have ever been on. Every step of the way was loose, and there are cliffs below the summit. But when dry or with solid snow I'm sure is much friendlier.

Gear to Bring
-10 Essentials
-Helmet
-Glacier Travel Gear (pickets, webbing, pulleys, and prusiks)
-Glacier Rope
-Crampons
-Ice Axe
-Camera

Topographic Maps

Downloadable Topographic Map of Route up Sahale

Red Tape and Camping

Camping on Sahale

Filtering Water on Sahale Arm

For overnight Camping you need Back Country Permit which are free of cost, but is based on a first come first serve bases and may run out. There is no camping at Cascade Pass, I know it's a lovely place with great views but is forbidden by the National Park and damages fragile vegetation. But there are camp sites along the road to the trail head of Cascade Pass, and on the upper part of Sahale near the glacier there are some good places to camp.

Water Source: There is at least one tarn on the way up Sahale Arm, depending on your luck it may look green and unpleasant. My brother and I were desperate, and filtered some when it was like this and did not get sick. On the way to Cascade Pass there are a few creeks which may be good for filtering water. If your willing to extend your trip Doubtful Lake is another good source for water. Also if your lucky there may we water melting off of the Sahale Glacier near the bottom.

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