Route Climbed: North Chimney Date Climbed: May 2003
Great route! Went as a party of 3. Initial cracks were stellar, chimney was fun, and last bit of face was sweet. Were the last party to leave the summit and then came the epic descent. At the end of the first rappel, one rope swung out of sight with a knot in the end. Ended up leaving most of that rope swinging in the wind, rapping on a 50 m. Got back to camp around 9:00. Poured out our friends fire with precious beer when the wind shipped up. Wind died immediately, and we went to eat. Needless to say, they were a bit angry.
Route Climbed: North Chimney, Kor-Ingalls Date Climbed: May 2002, April 17, 2005
The calcite on the first pitch has to be one of the coolest features of climbing Castleton. Best pro in the desert, as I see it. Wonderful route, very worthwhile summit and exhilirating rappel. Getting the clip on the bolt that begins the second pitch is scary. A number 8 camalot would really protect the crack well!! We went back in April 2005 for the Kor-Ingalls. What a workout. Very heady on the third pitch, but a great feature. Colby should get away from the classics (twice, no less!!) and try some obscure routes in the desert:-).
Route Climbed: Kor Ingalls Date Climbed: april 20, 2003
coundn't have picked a better day for the climb, the weather was perfect. the route was about what was expected, fun and somewhat demanding at the same time. the calcite deposits do make for some tricky/unconventional moves.