Route Climbed: Traverse from Klein Matterhorn to Quintino Sella (via Pollux) Date Climbed: August 27, 2004
Started from Klein Matterhorn in the morning and reached the summit a couple of hours after having summited its twin, Pollux. Then down to the Sella hut.
Route Climbed: Normal Route via Val d' Ayas Hut Date Climbed: August 13, 2003
Departed with fellow climber Ricardo from Val d' Ayas Hut (above Quintino Sella Hut) at around 5:00 AM. Worked our way up the Glacier and arrived to the foot of the Castor in about 1.5 hours. It is a short climb from there, however there is a tricky 25-meter, 40-45º ice wall before reaching the final ridge to the summit so it can get crowded and slow (take a couple of ice screws). Once you've reached the snow ridge, keep your coolness and don't look down to the sides, just concentrate on your feet. Don't think about doing this ridge without a rope.
Route Climbed: West-north west -Flank Date Climbed: 13th august 2003
After a badly sleepen night (because of the snowfalls from both Pollux and Castor) in the Zwillingsjoch we started early and climbed the normal route to the summit.
The final ridge was beautyful and pretty aerial. Summit itself was crowded with climbers from Italian huts.
Route Climbed: WNW-Flank Date Climbed: 12 Jul 2002
We ( Tim and I) stayed overnight at the Rossi and Volante bivouac hut and started with the Castor and after that we also climbed his twin Pollux via the SW-ridge.Nice Day !!
Route Climbed: normal route from Rif. Sella Date Climbed: august 2002
An easy peak with a nice view. We had a perfect day, and very good snow conditions. The only difficulty were a few meters on the final ridge, a bit exposed.
Route Climbed: Traverse from Grenzgletscher over Passo del Nasso to Zwillingsjoch Date Climbed: August 2002
We reached this beautiful snow peak in late afternoon, thus without people, after long route from Grenzgletscher (and unsuccessful atempt on Lyskamm traverse), over Passo del Nasso and via normal route from Rif. Q. Sella. Descent to Zwillingsjoch where we camped in our tent (nice place with amazing views but rather windy). Next day we saw another tent 10 min. further in direction to Kl. Matterhorn (just under the Pollux normal route) on good, windless place.
Route Climbed: From Sella - Felik Date Climbed: 5-6 October 1996
Two perfect days. No wind, no haze ... only Bettaforca's Chair lifts were closed (we were in October there), and get up/back from/to Stafal (Gressoney la Trinitè) was tremendous!
Route Climbed: SW-flank and traverse to Sella hut Date Climbed: August 8th 2000
In the morning we had climbed the Pollux. Climbing the steep slopes of the Castor in the strong sun at noon was not really funny. On the summits big clouds occured and we hurried down to the Sella hut to avoid getting into a thunderstorm.
Route Climbed: WNW-Flank Date Climbed: 1. September 2002
Only a few hours of good weather allowed us to reach the summit. Less people but a lot of new snow. Nice route, especially the final summit ridge is somewhat exposed.
Route Climbed: WNW Flank Date Climbed: August 25, 2002
Set off to climb despite two days of bad weather in Zermatt and more in the forecast. Conditions were OK initially, but a bad storm hit just as we reached the bottom of the face. Visibility was minimal and there was no track, which made navigating the glacier somewhat difficult. We reached the foresummit (4205 m) after some steep ice climbing and found very poor snow conditions on the summit ridge (lots of new, poorly consolidated snow, blown into a sharp knife edge by the wind). We started towards the summit but turned around about 15m short, having deemed the conditions too dangerous to allow a safe descent. The storm worsened as we returned to the Klein Matterhorn and on the Breithorn plateau visibility was limited to about 10m. It's easy to see how people have become lost there and died only a few hundred meters from the cable car.
flearreta - Sep 8, 2004 1:04 pm
Route Climbed: Traverse from Klein Matterhorn to Quintino Sella (via Pollux) Date Climbed: August 27, 2004Started from Klein Matterhorn in the morning and reached the summit a couple of hours after having summited its twin, Pollux. Then down to the Sella hut.
andrea.it - Aug 29, 2004 9:39 am
Route Climbed: normal from Q.Sella Date Climbed: August 1995My first 4000.Alone.
joel2lounge - Jul 25, 2004 12:45 pm
Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: October 2001one day link up of the Breithorn, Pollux, & Castor from Zermatt.
andrea.it - May 10, 2004 1:53 pm
Route Climbed: NW from Mezzalama hut. Date Climbed: july 2002No technic difficulties but very nice shape mountain.
maria grazia s - Apr 10, 2004 4:03 am
Route Climbed: NW starting from Ref. Teodulo and coming down to reg. Sella Date Climbed: July 1978Very nice conditions
Pierre smetsers - Oct 5, 2003 5:11 pm
Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: 5th august 2002very nice
flearreta - Sep 20, 2003 9:27 am
Route Climbed: Normal Route via Val d' Ayas Hut Date Climbed: August 13, 2003Departed with fellow climber Ricardo from Val d' Ayas Hut (above Quintino Sella Hut) at around 5:00 AM. Worked our way up the Glacier and arrived to the foot of the Castor in about 1.5 hours. It is a short climb from there, however there is a tricky 25-meter, 40-45º ice wall before reaching the final ridge to the summit so it can get crowded and slow (take a couple of ice screws). Once you've reached the snow ridge, keep your coolness and don't look down to the sides, just concentrate on your feet. Don't think about doing this ridge without a rope.
Samuli Mansikka - Aug 31, 2003 2:01 pm
Route Climbed: West-north west -Flank Date Climbed: 13th august 2003After a badly sleepen night (because of the snowfalls from both Pollux and Castor) in the Zwillingsjoch we started early and climbed the normal route to the summit.
The final ridge was beautyful and pretty aerial. Summit itself was crowded with climbers from Italian huts.
jsurinx - Aug 29, 2003 1:43 am
Route Climbed: WNW-Flank Date Climbed: 12 Jul 2002We ( Tim and I) stayed overnight at the Rossi and Volante bivouac hut and started with the Castor and after that we also climbed his twin Pollux via the SW-ridge.Nice Day !!
Pontius - Jul 22, 2003 9:57 am
Route Climbed: Traverse from Klein Matterhorn to Quintino Sella Date Climbed: 14th July 2003Good day, very hot on top and ridge nice and narrow.
Interesting Mountain and great views.
Good prelude to other more difficult peaks in the area.
estura - Jul 10, 2003 3:27 am
Route Climbed: normal route from Rif. Sella Date Climbed: august 2002An easy peak with a nice view. We had a perfect day, and very good snow conditions. The only difficulty were a few meters on the final ridge, a bit exposed.
zaryba - Dec 31, 2002 12:03 am
Route Climbed: Traverse from Grenzgletscher over Passo del Nasso to Zwillingsjoch Date Climbed: August 2002We reached this beautiful snow peak in late afternoon, thus without people, after long route from Grenzgletscher (and unsuccessful atempt on Lyskamm traverse), over Passo del Nasso and via normal route from Rif. Q. Sella. Descent to Zwillingsjoch where we camped in our tent (nice place with amazing views but rather windy). Next day we saw another tent 10 min. further in direction to Kl. Matterhorn (just under the Pollux normal route) on good, windless place.
buxlex - Oct 27, 2002 6:48 am
Route Climbed: From Sella - Felik Date Climbed: 5-6 October 1996Two perfect days. No wind, no haze ... only Bettaforca's Chair lifts were closed (we were in October there), and get up/back from/to Stafal (Gressoney la Trinitè) was tremendous!
Farmer - Oct 9, 2002 11:59 am
Route Climbed: normalroute from bivacco rossi e volente Date Climbed: aug 96Short and easy tour from bivac about 2h.....
Perfect view at sunrise. Same day we climbed its little brother Pollux.
Chandra - Sep 22, 2002 6:31 am
Route Climbed: normal route from Rif. Quintino Sella Date Climbed: July 8th, 2002We had a perfect day. The weather was so good that even Monviso seemed to be in the nearby neighbourhood.
Mathias Zehring - Sep 10, 2002 2:50 pm
Route Climbed: SW-flank and traverse to Sella hut Date Climbed: August 8th 2000In the morning we had climbed the Pollux. Climbing the steep slopes of the Castor in the strong sun at noon was not really funny. On the summits big clouds occured and we hurried down to the Sella hut to avoid getting into a thunderstorm.
kletterwebbi - Sep 5, 2002 11:44 pm
Route Climbed: WNW-Flank Date Climbed: 1. September 2002Only a few hours of good weather allowed us to reach the summit. Less people but a lot of new snow. Nice route, especially the final summit ridge is somewhat exposed.
Tom Fralich - Aug 25, 2002 8:45 am
Route Climbed: WNW Flank Date Climbed: August 25, 2002Set off to climb despite two days of bad weather in Zermatt and more in the forecast. Conditions were OK initially, but a bad storm hit just as we reached the bottom of the face. Visibility was minimal and there was no track, which made navigating the glacier somewhat difficult. We reached the foresummit (4205 m) after some steep ice climbing and found very poor snow conditions on the summit ridge (lots of new, poorly consolidated snow, blown into a sharp knife edge by the wind). We started towards the summit but turned around about 15m short, having deemed the conditions too dangerous to allow a safe descent. The storm worsened as we returned to the Klein Matterhorn and on the Breithorn plateau visibility was limited to about 10m. It's easy to see how people have become lost there and died only a few hundred meters from the cable car.
Gertiño - Jul 21, 2002 10:09 am
Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: 7 july 2002Coming from the Rifugio Guide de Ayas, we reached the summit around 9 AM.
Perfect weather conditions with a wonderful view.
Further down to Rifugio Quintino Sella.
Luidger - Dec 15, 2001 2:36 am
Route Climbed: Italian normal route Date Climbed: 08/14/1999My first alpine 4000m-peak. Relatively easy glacier trip.
The snow ridge is a bit exposed. Perfect views of Monviso, Gran Paradiso, Mt. Blanc, Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, ...