Monte Rosa group > Castor > Climber's LogCastor Climber's Log
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[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
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| Samuli Mansikka | Route Climbed: West-north-west flank variation Date Climbed: June 21th 2005  | |
| Started from the Guide di Ayas hut and followed the fellow climbers to the base of the flank. Instead than taking the most freguently used way to the left and to the base of the summit ridge we decided to take a direct line to the right near the rocky edge of flank. That made it possible for us to reach height a lot faster than on the normal route which zigzags up the flank. So we got to the summit from almost exactly opposite direction than usually so we missed the beautiful knize-edge summit ridge. Though I did it the previous time and surely our route was not a bad alternative at all. | |
| Posted Jul 18, 2005 5:39 am | ||
| Rockhopper | Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: 9 july 2005 | |
| The day started pretty well. Partly clouded weather. But at the time we reached the summit ridge temperatures were dropping and visibility was reduced to only a few meters. So we stayed just a little while at the summit to eat and drink. After we had turned our back to the Zwillingsjoch it started snowing. It was even pretty cold! On the way back I was wondering if we were enjoying a winter climb..... The weather made our climb tougher than expected. No nice views on Monte Rosa, but a nice climb anyway. | |
| Posted Jul 14, 2005 2:55 pm | ||
| Claude Mauguier | Route Climbed: east ridge Date Climbed: aug 1990 | |
| From Sella hut, via Felik Joch...Nice ridge, good snow and bright sun. Not too crowded either. | ||
| Posted May 15, 2005 1:16 pm | ||
| Joerg Marretsch | Route Climbed: Italien Normal Route (from Southwest) Date Climbed: 14 Aug 2004 | |
| Beautiful weather, mountain and group. A perfect day. | |
| Posted Apr 18, 2005 5:39 pm | ||
| mulidivarese | Route Climbed: Italian normal Date Climbed: July 2002 | |
| During the night the wind cleared the sky: in the morning was freezing, but fine. We left the Sellahut about 6:00. A long queue was on the glacier. But what a beautiful day. At the bottom of the slop to the Castorpass a lot of climber stop: so we were able to pass and go up with less traffic. It was the first 4000m for all of us (Valerio, Paolo, Marco). For Valerio was the first mountain after 6 month (Stockholm, Sweden since from February 2002). We climb well in a quite good time (2:30). Fantastic view from the top | |
| Posted Mar 9, 2005 3:39 pm | ||
| JanG | Route Climbed: Winter climb (from Klein Matterhorn) Date Climbed: April 3, 2001 | |
| This was a tough snow/ice climb crowned by an awesome descent to Zermatt over the seldom skied Zwillingsgletscher run. I was accompanied on the tour by my 17 y/o son Alexander and our local guide was Roman. We started the ski traverse from the tram station Klein Matterhorn at 8:45 under clear skies. We deposited our skis at Zwillingsjoch [alt. 3845m] and began the climb on sheer ice slabs. Other parties opted to abort the climb at that point, but Roman was able to find better snow at the side so we continued. Alexander and myself had to straddle the completely iced, knife-edged summit ridge while Roman dug hand-holds in the ice for us. We almost had to crawl on the ridge; however, we finally made it (slowly but surely) to the summit at 13:00. It was very windy at the top but nevertheless, it was exhilarating to share those moments with Alexander. Our descent to the ski depot site was much faster and we started our ski descent at 15:00. The Zwillingsgletscher run was often considered too dangerous to ski because of the ubiquitous crevasses. At the time that we took the run there was a solid, thick snow base so that Roman decided that we should give it a try. Right below the top ridge (where the ski run began) there were some risky Bergschrund crossings so that we were lowered on our skis by ropes anchored in the snow by Roman. The remainder of the run was on soft powder snow and we often skied between huge ice towers. At one spot I had a close miss because the snow under one ski suddenly vanished into a dark crevasse. Fortunately I was able to avoid a fall into the crevasse by maintaining my balance on the other ski. Finally after 2200 vertical meters of fantastic skiing, we arrived at 17:15 to a nice chalet in the valley, to feast our summit triumph with beer and a well-deserved but late lunch! | |
| Posted Nov 16, 2004 10:15 pm | ||
| hhsilleck | Route Climbed: traversed from Pollux to ref. Sella Date Climbed: June 29 2004 | |
| Neat summit ridge ... stunning panorama. | |
| Posted Sep 13, 2004 5:03 pm | ||
| Pechorin | Route Climbed: From Monte Rosa Hütte (over the Zwillingsgletscher), over the NE ridge Date Climbed: August 2004 | |
| We started at 3 o'clock, negotiating the crevasses and seracs of the Zwillingsgletscher in darkness. Finally approaching Castor, we climbed straight up (the NE Rip) to the pre-summit, and over the short north ridge to the summit. | |
| Posted Sep 12, 2004 1:55 pm | ||
| flearreta | Route Climbed: Traverse from Klein Matterhorn to Quintino Sella (via Pollux) Date Climbed: August 27, 2004 | |
| Started from Klein Matterhorn in the morning and reached the summit a couple of hours after having summited its twin, Pollux. Then down to the Sella hut. | |
| Posted Sep 8, 2004 1:04 pm | ||
| andrea.it | Route Climbed: normal from Q.Sella Date Climbed: August 1995 | |
| My first 4000.Alone. | |
| Posted Aug 29, 2004 9:39 am | ||
| joel2lounge | Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: October 2001 | |
| one day link up of the Breithorn, Pollux, & Castor from Zermatt. | |
| Posted Jul 25, 2004 12:45 pm | ||
| andrea.it | Route Climbed: NW from Mezzalama hut. Date Climbed: july 2002 | |
| No technic difficulties but very nice shape mountain. | |
| Posted May 10, 2004 1:53 pm | ||
| maria grazia s | Route Climbed: NW starting from Ref. Teodulo and coming down to reg. Sella Date Climbed: July 1978 | |
| Very nice conditions | |
| Posted Apr 10, 2004 4:03 am | ||
| Pierre smetsers | Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: 5th august 2002 | |
| very nice | |
| Posted Oct 5, 2003 5:11 pm | ||
| flearreta | Route Climbed: Normal Route via Val d' Ayas Hut Date Climbed: August 13, 2003 | |
| Departed with fellow climber Ricardo from Val d' Ayas Hut (above Quintino Sella Hut) at around 5:00 AM. Worked our way up the Glacier and arrived to the foot of the Castor in about 1.5 hours. It is a short climb from there, however there is a tricky 25-meter, 40-45º ice wall before reaching the final ridge to the summit so it can get crowded and slow (take a couple of ice screws). Once you've reached the snow ridge, keep your coolness and don't look down to the sides, just concentrate on your feet. Don't think about doing this ridge without a rope. | |
| Posted Sep 20, 2003 9:27 am | ||
| Samuli Mansikka | Route Climbed: West-north west -Flank Date Climbed: 13th august 2003 | |
| After a badly sleepen night (because of the snowfalls from both Pollux and Castor) in the Zwillingsjoch we started early and climbed the normal route to the summit. The final ridge was beautyful and pretty aerial. Summit itself was crowded with climbers from Italian huts. | |
| Posted Aug 31, 2003 2:01 pm | ||
| jsurinx | Route Climbed: WNW-Flank Date Climbed: 12 Jul 2002 | |
| We ( Tim and I) stayed overnight at the Rossi and Volante bivouac hut and started with the Castor and after that we also climbed his twin Pollux via the SW-ridge.Nice Day !! | |
| Posted Aug 29, 2003 1:43 am | ||
| Pontius | Route Climbed: Traverse from Klein Matterhorn to Quintino Sella Date Climbed: 14th July 2003 | |
| Good day, very hot on top and ridge nice and narrow. Interesting Mountain and great views. Good prelude to other more difficult peaks in the area. | ||
| Posted Jul 22, 2003 9:57 am | ||
| estura | Route Climbed: normal route from Rif. Sella Date Climbed: august 2002 | |
| An easy peak with a nice view. We had a perfect day, and very good snow conditions. The only difficulty were a few meters on the final ridge, a bit exposed. | ||
| Posted Jul 10, 2003 3:27 am | ||
| zaryba | Route Climbed: Traverse from Grenzgletscher over Passo del Nasso to Zwillingsjoch Date Climbed: August 2002 | |
| We reached this beautiful snow peak in late afternoon, thus without people, after long route from Grenzgletscher (and unsuccessful atempt on Lyskamm traverse), over Passo del Nasso and via normal route from Rif. Q. Sella. Descent to Zwillingsjoch where we camped in our tent (nice place with amazing views but rather windy). Next day we saw another tent 10 min. further in direction to Kl. Matterhorn (just under the Pollux normal route) on good, windless place. | |
| Posted Dec 31, 2002 12:03 am | ||
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