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Casual Sex

Page Type: Route

Location: Utah, United States, North America

Object Title: Casual Sex

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Difficulty: Sandbag 5.7

Number of Pitches: 1

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: hkutuk

Created/Edited: Nov 1, 2006 / Nov 4, 2006

Object ID: 240522

Hits: 4966 

Page Score: 74.01%  - 4 Votes 

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Approach

This route is on the The Practice Cliffs and they are located before the Zion Lodge as you travel up canyon. Ask the shuttle bus driver to stop before you get to the Zion Lodge. There is a distinct trail on the right side of the road that will take you to the cliffs. If you go to the lodge you have to walk back (down canyon). These cliffs are in the shade in the morning and sunny in the afternoon. The routes are relatively short but be aware there not anchors on top of each route and there is plenty of loose rock on the top of the cliff. You can walk off the north end of the cliffs. Casual Sex is the first route you get to when you walk up the trail.

Route Description

 
Casual Sex
Where is the jam?
 
Casual Sex
Reach deep inside.
This was my first 5.7 in the park and have to admit it was quite stiff for a 5.7 crack. Start with slippery feet and place a red camalot as soon as you can, then get your feet in the crack. Higher up the crack flares so much that you have reach an arm length deep in the crack to get a decent jam. Move yourself in the wedge and reach the anchors shortly.

Essential Gear

One of each #0.5, 0.75, 1 and 2 camalots. A 60m rope will plenty sufficient. There are bolt anchors on top of the route.

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