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jeffnRoute Climbed: SE Buttress Date Climbed: Multiple  Sucess!
Never have done the 5.6 chimney due to crowds. A beautiful day no matter how many people.
Posted Apr 3, 2002 7:49 pm

darinchadwickRoute Climbed: SW Buttress Date Climbed: August 1999, September 2005  Sucess!


Such a fun route, and such a pointy summit. This peak opened our eyes to the alpine rock possiblities surrounding us......Conness and Matthes Crest beckoned......

6 years later we climbed it again, taking some friends with us who had never climbed in Toulumne before. It was with some satisfaction that we pointed out the surrounding peaks and domes we had climbed in the intervening years. Even more satisfying was to witness our progress as climbers. The climb seemed so much shorter, simpler, and faster than our first time.
Posted Mar 30, 2002 7:01 am

Dave DalyRoute Climbed: Southeast Buttress Date Climbed: Oct 1 2001  Sucess!

Dave Daly

Like Brandon said, the 5.7 variation left of the chimney is fun. Try the face between the crack and chimney. Be solid on 5.9.....no pro!......just rounded chickenheads. When I summited, there was a party of three scattering ashes of a friend upon the summit block. Now that's what I call 'soul coughing'!!
Posted Feb 10, 2002 2:38 pm

NandiniRoute Climbed: SE Butress Date Climbed: July 2000  Sucess!
Exciting route for the begginer. It was quite memorable, my first climb ever with B$. I was given a crash course on how to climb, insane. Challenging scramblling on the way down. Can't wait to do it again!
Posted Dec 24, 2001 11:29 am

ronRoute Climbed: southeast buttress Date Climbed: multiple dates  Sucess!
this is a great route, do it early in the morning and try to be first of the route, much more enjoyable. For a change of pace avoid the crowds and just move a couple hundred feet to the left of the main crowd and find just as fun and easy of a route and there will be no one around the entire route. Just have to traverse back right on the summit ridge to get to the true summit.
Posted Oct 8, 2001 8:34 pm

JohnRoute Climbed: SE Buttress Date Climbed: October 6, 2001  Sucess!


Nice climb with Josh - quick and fun. My Five Ten Spire's were excellent on the ascent but painful on the way down (Mountaineers Route). Rock shoes are not meant for hiking ;-) Easily one of my favorite climbs to date. We went very early so didn't really run into any other climbers en route to the summit. After we came down to the base of the climb, there were others still getting started on the first pitch.
Posted Oct 7, 2001 9:26 pm

JoshRoute Climbed: SE Buttress Date Climbed: October 6, 2001  Sucess!


Climbed with John. Nice day.
Posted Oct 6, 2001 10:09 pm

brandonRoute Climbed: SE Butt + variations Date Climbed: Many times....  Sucess!


Have climbed this one a ton of times. Is busy but there are umpteen thousand variations all over the face that are never harder than 5.7. BTW, kinda sketchy pro on the start of the 5.7 variation by the chimney, but very good climbing if you are comfortable at the grade (that's my favorite description that in a lot of climbing areas means big air potential..ie. Figures on a Landscpae at jTree.
Posted Sep 18, 2001 4:01 pm

JoshRoute Climbed: SE Buttress Date Climbed: August 29, 2001  Sucess!


Just got back from a day of climbing in Yosemite.

Ryle and I started at the Cathedral lakes trailhead at 8:37. My plan was to attempt to bag most of the peaks in the Cathedral Range: Cathedral, Eichorn, all 9 echo peaks, Echo Ridge, Matthes Crest, Cockscomb, and Unicorn. Ryle was going to meet me at a couple select peaks and climb them with me.

I jogged up to the trail to the base of the SE buttress, changed into my climbing shoes, and free-soloed to the summit. I reached the summit almost exactly one hour after I left my car. The climbing took 20 minutes.

I then traversed over to Eichorn Pinnacle and free-soloed up the 5.4 North Face. I then down-climbed the North Face back to the saddle, and finally down-climbed to the ground via the south face (not the "South Face Route," but some horrible line to the left/west of it....lots of loose rock, but never harder than 5.easy).

From there, I headed over to the Echo Peaks and bagged the first 8. The plan was for Ryle to meet me at Echo Peak #9. I got there at 11:50 and waited for more than an hour and a half, but Ryle never showed up. After lying in the sun for 90 minutes, I lost all motivation and headed back to the car where I waited another two hours for Ryle. Somehow he had gotten lost. Not exactly the day I had planned, but it was fun anyway.
Posted Aug 29, 2001 8:42 pm

Bob BurdRoute Climbed: SE Buttress Date Climbed: Aug 13, 1999, Oct 10, 1999  Sucess!

Bob Burd

The August ascent was the first technical peak for both John and I, having just completed our Rock II class two months earlier. We set out to climb the Mountaineers Route, but when we got to the base of the SE Buttress, it looked too good to pass up. Trip report.

Had so much fun I came back a second time with Monty - We climbed Cockscomb, Echo Ridge and all the Echo Peaks on one day, camped at Echo Lake and made an attempt on Matthes Crest the following day (failed), then climbed Cathedral for a consolation on the way back. Another Trip report.
Posted Aug 28, 2001 6:50 pm

JoshRoute Climbed: SE Buttress twice and West Face once Date Climbed: May, June, and July 2001  Sucess!


My first time up Cathedral Peak was via the West Face. Ryle and I climbed to the saddle between Cathedral and Eichorn Pinnacle, then we went up the 5.4 north face of Eichorn. After bagging Eichorn we traversed over to the summit of Cathedral.

My second time up Cathedral Peak was via the SE Buttress. Ryle and I simul-climbed most of the route because thunderstorms were building. We didn't quite beat the storms....heavy rain and hail started on the last pitch. While belaying Ryle from just below the summit, I was treated to the comforting sound of rocks buzzing.

My third time up, I free-soloed the SE Buttress...just over 2 hours car-to-car.
Posted Aug 28, 2001 5:12 pm

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