Route Climbed: SE Buttress Date Climbed: June 6, 2004
Nice route, much easier than anticipated. To spice things up a bit Etsuko and I climbed the 5.7 variation to the right of the Chimney. Fun! However, think again if you want to climb this route on a warm sunny summer weekend day. Aside from us there were probably 20 people on the route. Even though there are variations, we all bottlenecked below the summit and ended up waiting for hours before we could top out. Nevertheless, it was enjoyable and incredibly serene. We climbed the route in 5 pitches (stretched first two pitches to 210' each), with me leading pitches #1 (5.5-5.6), #3 (5.7 variation) and #4 (5.5?); and Etsuko leading #2 (5.6) and #5 (to the summit, 5.6)
I lost one of my yellow Aliens somewhere on the route (whoever finds it, ENJOY), and found a #2 Camalot. Go figure :)
Route Climbed: Southeast Buttress Date Climbed: June 2, 2004
Great day of climbing the Southeast Buttress with Alberto Alesina; we did it in 6 pitches, leading 3 each. The descent required hiking all the way to the base of Eichorn due to snow in the bowl below the summit. One other party climbing at the same time and same speed as us (3 forest service employees) and 2 parties behind us.
This was a warmup for our unsuccessful attempt on the Fishhook Arete of Mount Russell.
Route Climbed: SE Butress Date Climbed: September 2, 2002
Really fun climb!! That is unless you were the pair of dunses that starteed up late and disregarded the storm that was brewing and ended up dumping on them while on route!! It was pretty cool to straddle the summit! I almost went flying while I was leading the pitch through the chimny when a rescue choper came out of nowhere at our same elevation and seemed as though it was 75 feet away!! Good times with by boy CD!!
Route Climbed: South East Butress Date Climbed: July 4, 03
Did this with Howard Sebold. Tooks the 5.7 line. Wonderful aestheic climb. Got spooked off the summit by building clouds. Got lapped on the descent by a soloist, Steve Seats. He climbinged the thing in 20 minutes compared to our 4 hours.
Route Climbed: Mountaineers Route Date Climbed: Sept 20 2003
I was thinking of doing the SE face, but there were already 4 climbing teams starting when we arrived, so we went for the mountaineers route. We tried to climb the north face, without much luck. Instead we decended to climb the mountaineers route, a fine time for all.
Route Climbed: SE Buttress Date Climbed: Oct 19 2003
Arrived at the base of Cathedral @ 10:50 AM....only 4 parties above. Cranked up SE Butt. in 35 minutes. Had a 45-minute lunch on the summit with not a soul topping out. Gorgeous weather. Some gumby left two new ropes in between the saddle of Cathedral and Eichorn. Split one with Mike Shaffer (YMG), who was guiding a client. Guess that's the price you pay for being in a hurry (no reason to: weather was great, no reported accidents etc). Must have money to throw around.......
Route Climbed: SE butress Date Climbed: October 8, 1994
Beautiful day. The chimney is great. Fun climb.
Matthew Holliman - Oct 20, 2003 12:48 pm Date Climbed: Oct 18, 2003
A beautiful peak
Climbed this one a couple of times. The first time was back on Oct 18, '03 via the west face with Dave, Rich, and Mike... it's an awesome peak, although Eichorn Pinnacle steals the show on this approach. I immediately put that on my to-do list.
Came back a few months later (Jun 18, '04) to climb the SE Buttress with Sam, probably just my second or third multi-pitch climb ever (he led everything)... there were four or five parties on the route even that day. Fun climb! We ran out of time for Eichorn Pinnacle.
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: October 18, 2003
Climbed west face route with SP'ers David Kiene and Matthew Holliman. A fun scramble. We roped up for the last 15 foot bit to the summit. My first "roped climb". Perfect weather. Fall in Tuolumne is tough to beat.
Gail J - Aug 15, 2004 1:35 pm
Route Climbed: South East Buttress Date Climbed: Sept. 12, 1999Beautiful
ocelot - Jul 27, 2004 5:22 pm
Route Climbed: SE Buttress Date Climbed: July 22, 2004We mixed and matched a route just west of the classic SE Buttress. Some nice lines @ 5.5 - 5.7. 3 man team, 5.5 pitches on a 60M rope. Fun.
poorboy44 - Jul 23, 2004 2:42 pm
Route Climbed: Southeast Buttress Date Climbed: June 2004This route is way crowded! The descent is kind of weird, we went all the way left to the notch with Eichorn, and then back across.
I noticed someone removed the rappel anchor from the summit.
mdostby - Jun 22, 2004 10:47 pm
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: June 22, 2004Fun climb. Now to go back and do the SE Buttress.
Shaase - Jun 22, 2004 12:53 pm
Route Climbed: SE buttress Date Climbed: 06/20/2004Simul climbed much of lower butress toping out a little over a 2 hours. Clear skiis and nice people on the route.
Sam Mills - Jun 20, 2004 12:15 pm
Route Climbed: Southeast Buttress Date Climbed: June 18, 2004This time roped up with SPer Matthew Holliman.
bobpickering - Jun 14, 2004 12:59 am
Route Climbed: Southeast Buttress Date Climbed: June 13, 2004Solo from the toe of the buttress to the summit in 12:52. My 40th time on this route.
Misha - Jun 8, 2004 10:05 pm
Route Climbed: SE Buttress Date Climbed: June 6, 2004Nice route, much easier than anticipated. To spice things up a bit Etsuko and I climbed the 5.7 variation to the right of the Chimney. Fun! However, think again if you want to climb this route on a warm sunny summer weekend day. Aside from us there were probably 20 people on the route. Even though there are variations, we all bottlenecked below the summit and ended up waiting for hours before we could top out. Nevertheless, it was enjoyable and incredibly serene. We climbed the route in 5 pitches (stretched first two pitches to 210' each), with me leading pitches #1 (5.5-5.6), #3 (5.7 variation) and #4 (5.5?); and Etsuko leading #2 (5.6) and #5 (to the summit, 5.6)
I lost one of my yellow Aliens somewhere on the route (whoever finds it, ENJOY), and found a #2 Camalot. Go figure :)
Romain - Jun 8, 2004 3:18 pm
Route Climbed: Southeast Buttress Date Climbed: June 2, 2004Great day of climbing the Southeast Buttress with Alberto Alesina; we did it in 6 pitches, leading 3 each. The descent required hiking all the way to the base of Eichorn due to snow in the bowl below the summit. One other party climbing at the same time and same speed as us (3 forest service employees) and 2 parties behind us.
This was a warmup for our unsuccessful attempt on the Fishhook Arete of Mount Russell.
balajisv - May 27, 2004 1:39 am
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: Oct 18 2003First time for me (a novice) with a bunch of very experienced climbers. Was good fun.
coloradoiceclimber - Apr 11, 2004 10:13 am Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2003
Route Climbed: SE Butress Date Climbed: September 2, 2002Really fun climb!! That is unless you were the pair of dunses that starteed up late and disregarded the storm that was brewing and ended up dumping on them while on route!! It was pretty cool to straddle the summit! I almost went flying while I was leading the pitch through the chimny when a rescue choper came out of nowhere at our same elevation and seemed as though it was 75 feet away!! Good times with by boy CD!!
rolkamon - Mar 19, 2004 2:10 pm
Route Climbed: South East Butress Date Climbed: July 4, 03Did this with Howard Sebold. Tooks the 5.7 line. Wonderful aestheic climb. Got spooked off the summit by building clouds. Got lapped on the descent by a soloist, Steve Seats. He climbinged the thing in 20 minutes compared to our 4 hours.
Rob - Jan 21, 2004 7:17 pm
Route Climbed: SE Butress Date Climbed: 1992(solo ascent) Fun,Great view.
mtnfoto - Jan 20, 2004 5:59 pm
Route Climbed: SE Buttress Date Climbed: 1977I remember being the only party on the peak on a perfect summer Saturday....
Dave Dinnell - Jan 9, 2004 11:53 pm
Route Climbed: West Face ; SE Buttress Date Climbed: August 1986 ; July 1989Incredible summit trip with approaching thunderstorm on '86 trip. The SE Buttress rt. was very enjoyable with old friends Hugh and Dan Sakols.
danbknox - Nov 30, 2003 4:05 am
Route Climbed: Mountaineers Route Date Climbed: Sept 20 2003I was thinking of doing the SE face, but there were already 4 climbing teams starting when we arrived, so we went for the mountaineers route. We tried to climb the north face, without much luck. Instead we decended to climb the mountaineers route, a fine time for all.
Dave Daly - Oct 24, 2003 8:30 pm
Route Climbed: SE Buttress Date Climbed: Oct 19 2003Arrived at the base of Cathedral @ 10:50 AM....only 4 parties above. Cranked up SE Butt. in 35 minutes. Had a 45-minute lunch on the summit with not a soul topping out. Gorgeous weather. Some gumby left two new ropes in between the saddle of Cathedral and Eichorn. Split one with Mike Shaffer (YMG), who was guiding a client. Guess that's the price you pay for being in a hurry (no reason to: weather was great, no reported accidents etc). Must have money to throw around.......
jverschuyl - Oct 24, 2003 1:02 pm
Route Climbed: SE butress Date Climbed: October 8, 1994Beautiful day. The chimney is great. Fun climb.
Matthew Holliman - Oct 20, 2003 12:48 pm Date Climbed: Oct 18, 2003
A beautiful peakClimbed this one a couple of times. The first time was back on Oct 18, '03 via the west face with Dave, Rich, and Mike... it's an awesome peak, although Eichorn Pinnacle steals the show on this approach. I immediately put that on my to-do list.
Came back a few months later (Jun 18, '04) to climb the SE Buttress with Sam, probably just my second or third multi-pitch climb ever (he led everything)... there were four or five parties on the route even that day. Fun climb! We ran out of time for Eichorn Pinnacle.
steeleman - Oct 20, 2003 12:47 pm
Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: October 18, 2003Climbed west face route with SP'ers David Kiene and Matthew Holliman. A fun scramble. We roped up for the last 15 foot bit to the summit. My first "roped climb". Perfect weather. Fall in Tuolumne is tough to beat.
Pictures and trip report here