Cathedral Rocks/Spires Climber's Log
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Date Climbed: Nov 9, 2007
|Higher Cathedral Spire- Regular Route (6.10.'11)|
Did with Faith. After doing the obligatory, undesirable approach, geared up at the base. 2 assholes jumped in front of us while getting ready ('We want to do a couple routes today. Can we get ahead (in parentheses: 'We don't really care if you like it or not')? Weren't as fast as they thought (couldn't pass the Tyroleans who'd already started), & I guess getting up early to avoid the crowds on a popular climb wasn't obvious enough. Oh well- whatever.
At any rate, a phenomenal, justly-classic route. I have a hard time thinking of a team doing this back in the 30s!! While we freed it, the light years that modern equipment/technology/methods are ahead of what was around then is hard to fathom... Climbing was great, though- sustained, solid Valley 5.9, & the summit is hard to beat! Superb views from up top too.
Middle Cathedral, Kor-Beck
Did this with Rusty. Got a late start (14.00ish) after a leisurely beginning of the day. Enjoyable climb the whole way. We only did the first 6(?) pitches, the standard, I guess. Got back to the base in the dark, but we managed to get to the Village store JUST in time to get beer, so it was a great success!
Higher Cathedral Rock, Braille Book (Junish, 2010)
Another one with Rob. Thought we were screwed when we heard voices ahead of us near the base of the route. We blasted up along the base, though, while the competition wallowed through the underbrush, & we snaked 'em. Great success!! Behind another party, but not a big deal. After me taking forever to finally sack up to get past the psychological crux on P1, the rest went smoothly. Some old-school Valley 5.'8' for sure! Great climbing though, & another awesome day in The Valley.
Higher Cathedral Rock- NE buttress
With Rob again. Started the route at a relatively late 9.38. After the obligatory rock-paper-scissors, Rob got odd pitches, I even. First few pitches went great, & left us totally unprepared for what lay ahead... This climb is a burly, old-school Yo-f$%*ing-semite climb, & will spank you & make you grovel if you aren't on your off-width/chimney game. Nonetheless, it is an utter classic, & should not be missed... Incredibly sustained, consistently strenuous climbing, incredible views on the way up & on the top (we tagged the true summit). Headlamps on El Cap (esp. the line up The Nose) was cool, descent in the dark interesting. Beer upon return was well-earned! The 2 guys we met at the start as well as upon our return (back at their car) from LA who'd just done the DNB were cool- thanks for your hospitality! :) Another great day in The Valley!!
Middle Cathedral- E Buttress
Climbed with Rob. What a great climb! As it sprinkled on our drive in from outside the park, I was a bit apprehensive, but it ended up working out great. We could barely see anything down the Valley, as views were obscured by smoke from forest fires. That, added to the fact that we were the only ones on the route that day, & it was November, made for a surreal day of climbing. Being pretty out of it (in the middle of a case of the flu), I took a short fall while leading the "5.8" section (seemed stiff for a 5.8) right below the 2 fixed pins on P3. Had a few minor slips on stuff I'd normally feel fine about too. Anyway, led the 5.9 roof free & w/o incident, which was nice. Rob did a great job of leading all his pitches. I led Ps 2-3 (combined), 5 (aided bolt ladder), 7, 9, & 11.
Started descent down the gully shortly before twilight, got back to the truck in the dark- glad we didn't go for the true summit. Descent back to the Katwalk & from there to the start of the gully would have been impossible! All in all a great day!
|Posted Nov 12, 2007 12:58 pm|
|Tom Fralich||Multiple Routes |
Date Climbed: May 19, 2007
|Middle Catedral Rock, East Buttress (IV 5.9 A0, 11 pitches) -- May 19, 2007 -- First long route in Yosemite, climbed with my roommate from undergrad, Eric Aldenhoff. Left the car at 6AM, started climbing at 6:30AM, topped out at 3PM. Great route with really sustained climbing and lots of interesting pitches. I led pitches 1,2,5,8,9. The descent must be one of the 50 Worst Descents of North America. |
Higher Cathedral Spire, Regular Route (III 5.9, 5 pitches) -- May 24, 2007 -- Climbed with Eric Aldenhoff, starting from the car at around 7:30AM. The approach took about 1 hr. The climbing on the route was fun, but a bit chossy. I led pitches 1,3,5. The summit was bigger than expected and made a nice lunch spot. We were back at the car by 4PM.
Middle Cathedral Rock, Central Pillar of Frenzy (III 5.9, 5 pitches) -- May 25, 2007 -- Climbed yet again with Eric Aldenhoff on our 2007 trip to Yosemite. The climbing was fantastic. Eric led pitches 1,3,5 and I led the others, including the awesome 5.9 finger crack on pitch 2. The rappels went really easily using the rap line to the left of the route. We started at around 8AM and were back to the car by 3PM.
Middle Cathedral Rock, Kor-Beck (III 5.9, 6 pitches) -- October 7, 2007 -- Climbed this with MichaelJ as our first long route together in Yosemite. It was really cold in the morning, so we started late (around 11AM). I was still a bit chilly at the belays, but the climbing was strenuous enough to keep the blood flowing. Fun climbing, a bit awkward in sections. I led pitches 1,3,5.
Higher Cathedral Rock, Braille Book (III 5.8, 6 pitches) -- October 3, 2008 -- Mike Wright and I climbed this route on our second day in the Valley. The weather was pretty unsettled all day, but we managed to get it done before the rain came. Really strenuous and sustained climbing on this one. I found it to be more strenuous than Kor-Beck. I led pitches 1,3,5.
|Posted May 20, 2007 12:28 am|
|mow10||E buttress of middle |
Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2003
|Yosemite at its best. Great rock, great pro. Lots of shorter routes I have said "I wish it went on like this for another 1000 feet..." - this climb does.|
|Posted Mar 17, 2007 7:13 am|
|kaos14||Route Climbed Higher Cathedral Spire Regular Route |
Date Climbed: Oct 22, 2006
|With Darko, Warren and Tom.|
Amazingly our party of four ended up in a drag race to the base of the route with... another party of four. Darko managed to find the start and we got on first. The only rough patch was a rope snag after Darko led the first pitch. Started climbing at 9am and topped out at 1:15ish. Beautiful fall weather and awesome views of the fall folliage.
|Posted Oct 23, 2006 6:08 pm|
|rpc||Few lines |
Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2006
|Braille Book. An OK route - like steep cobblestone road. Don't think there was much crack climbing on it.|
Climbed a few lines on MCR over extended Memorial Day Wknd.
Central Pillar Of Frenzy. BEAUTIFUL line and gorgeous climbing!
East Butt of MCR. Very nice. Classic indeed. Sustained at 5.7-5.8. Aided Harding ladder.
Kor-Beck (1st 6 pitches). Last dihedral pitch was hard. Hung on it couple times. Rest of route is nice - not stellar but nice.
|Posted Jun 29, 2006 4:55 pm|
|forjan||Central Pillar of Frenzy |
Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2006
|Climbed it as a party of 3: Javier, Dan and I. Awesome views of El Cap just across and Merced River.|
|Posted Jun 5, 2006 9:39 pm|
|Rileywyna||Route Climbed: Reg route on Higher Cathedral Spire & Central Pillar of Frenzy. Date Climbed: May 2001|
|Climbed Higher with my great partner Thad. We did the off route variation that take the crack stright up from the tree at the top of the first pitch. Had some of the nicest moves I have ever done on lead. An overhanging, stemming, flake problem. Took my first fall of my climbing career on the next pitch trying to free another off route pitch to the right of the chimeny. Love this climb.|
Central pillar was good to. Some hard bits/pitchs on this climb.
|Posted Dec 19, 2005 7:51 am|
|tdoughty||Route Climbed: Many|
|N. Butress of MCR over 2 days, Regular routes on both Higher and Lower Spires (desend Spires Gully) E. Butress of MCR (descend Catwalk), and the Overhang Bypass route on LCR (descend Gunsight).|
|Posted Oct 16, 2005 12:28 pm|
|salad||Route Climbed: East Butt Date Climbed: 1997ish|
|Great climb, badly dehydrated as my hydration system leaked out belaying on pitch 2. did the 10a fifty crowded variation.|
|Posted Aug 11, 2005 3:49 pm|
|Matthew Holliman||Route Climbed: NW Buttress of MCR Date Climbed: Apr 16, 2005|
|Like Bob said. This was an enjoyable day--Gunsight was spicy, and I led my first pitch ever on MCR's NW Buttress. Suffice it to say, that was a learning experience. I have a much better understanding of the meaning of "rope drag" now. :-)|
|Posted May 25, 2005 1:02 am|
|Brian Frederick||Route Climbed: East Butress, middle cathedral Date Climbed: Late 80's|
|Excellent Route! Loved the cracks. Almost had it to ourselves, and we thought we were moving well until we got passed near the top by two Italians in jumpsuits who flew by like we were standing still... made me wish I knew how to climb.|
|Posted May 17, 2005 1:01 am|
|Bob Burd||Route Climbed: NW Buttress of MCR Date Climbed: Apr 16, 2005|
|Toured the Cathedral Rocks with Matthew, hitting the summits of Lower, Middle, and Higher Cathedral Rocks, up via Gunsight and the NW Buttress of Middle, then down Spires Gully. Trip Report|
|Posted May 1, 2005 1:11 pm|
|stoneman5||Route Climbed: Central Pillar of Frenzy Date Climbed: May, 1998|
|First five only. Great climbing|
|Posted Sep 13, 2004 7:35 pm|
|stoneman5||Route Climbed: East Buttress of Middle Date Climbed: June 1996|
|Wonderful climb. Noone else on the route.|
|Posted Sep 13, 2004 7:34 pm|
|mekwise||Route Climbed: Central Pillar of Frenzy Date Climbed: August 2003|
|Sort of a summit I supposed. We finished the climb. We climbed the first five pitches, which is the normal route now. I think originally the route went further but the climbing on the first five pitches is the best. Absolutely great climb.|
|Posted Sep 6, 2004 11:56 am|
|AlexeyD||Route Climbed: Lower Cathedral Spire (classic route?) Date Climbed: August 2003|
|Tried to climb the classic 5.6 route on the south face; got 3 pitches up the wrong route before being turned back by an anthill blocking the main chimney. An unusual experience, to say the least...|
|Posted Jul 26, 2004 1:43 pm|
|AlexeyD||Route Climbed: Higher Cathedral Spire/Regular Route (5.9) Date Climbed: August 2002|
|Despite a late start, all 5 of us made it to the top...unfortunately, it wasn't possible with jugging|
|Posted Jul 26, 2004 1:41 pm|
|Deb||Route Climbed: Gunsight Date Climbed: 22 November 2003|
|Quite chilly outside but we warmed up rather nicely scrambling to the summit for a beautiful view of El Cap. Didn't care too much for the down-climbing, not my strength; glad is wasn't any wetter or colder.|
Another lovely memory for the Rolodex!
|Posted Jan 25, 2004 10:54 pm|
|Rob||Route Climbed: E Butress,Middle Cath. rock 5.10c Date Climbed: 1994|
|Also have climbed the Higher C. Spire .R.R.|
Higher C. Rock, Braille Book
Middle C. CPF
|Posted Jan 18, 2004 4:35 am|
|Dave Dinnell||Route Climbed: Reg. Rt. Higher Spire, Reg. Rt. Lower Spire, E. Butt. Mid. Cath. Date Climbed: July 1987|
|Climbed Reg. Rt. on higher spire 2x in one week. Fun Rt. with group of friends-social climbing! Climbed East Buttress of Middle Cath. Rock 7/87 with Hugh Sakols; Climbed Reg. Rt. on Lower Spire with Bill Nolan 10/93.|
|Posted Jan 10, 2004 12:06 am|