Cordillera Oriental (Ecuador) > Cayambe > Climber's LogCayambe Climber's Log
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| damgaard | Awesome  Date Climbed: Apr 6, 2013 | |
| Cloudless night and not much wind. Perfect conditions. Reached the top with Simon West and our guide Eddison shortly after sunrise. Not a cloud around and the most amazing view of 10+ volcanoes. | |
| Posted May 4, 2013 11:32 am | ||
| jm141302 | Not this time Date Climbed: Mar 23, 2013 | |
| Paid $23 a night at the refuge. We had fairly good weather, but it had been snowing for several days before we got there. Starting from the glacier we were walking in fog. We got about 2/3 of the way up, where it starts to get steep and our guide said we were going to cause an avalanche if we kept going, so we turned back. I've been with this guide to the summit of 3 other high peaks so I trust his opinion and didn't think he was just being lazy. The wind was also picking up and blowing around the fresh snow, making visibility pretty low. Maybe some other time. | |
| Posted Apr 3, 2013 3:51 pm | ||
| Cissa | Terrible weather Date Climbed: Jan 4, 2013 | |
| Stuck in the hut for 3 days due to heavy rain and very strong winds. Soaked in less then 5 minutes. | |
| Posted Jan 10, 2013 4:51 pm | ||
| Socorro | Beautiful mountain Date Climbed: Dec 20, 2012 | |
| Was up in the refuge for three nights... much too long for good rest. I had a guided climb the second night but just up to La ventana in the rocks, we found ourselves in too much static, plus the pressue was dropping pretty quickly. Visibility was horrible in the rocks from heavy fog and descending in the wetness wasn´t too fun. I was pretty sad from seeing the mountain experience a perfect last week. Then the guide that also happened to be in the refuge offered to take me up so long as his client was ok with it. So suddenly had another chance... waited all day as the mountain stayed socked in, feeling doubtful and wondering if it was worth spending another miserable night at the hut. 1 a.m. was gorgeous though - almost totally clear but still warmish. Sleepless nights got to me and I did slow down my teammates who obviously were much stronger, but their love of sharing the mountains and generousity was profound as was their patience. It wasn´t a super slow morning but we got to the top at about 8 a.m. Apparently the route accessing the top changed about a month ago and now the best way is zigzagging up a ramp of steep snow (protection good) around huge, shockingly beautiful ice walls. Got a windy summit but saw Reventador erupting, plus Tungurahua erupting far off in the distance. Chimborazo, Antisana, Cotopaxi, Sumaco, Illinizas, El Corazon, Imbabura, Cotacachi... all poking above scattered clouds. Encountered only a few crevasses all deep but with narrow crossings. Nice snow. Felt not fantastic coming down. | |
| Posted Dec 20, 2012 5:54 pm | ||
| mtvalley | Normal Route Date Climbed: Jan 11, 2012 | |
| Summitted with a group of three other climbing partners and two local guides. The climbing is steeper and more sustained than Cotopaxi. The summit was windy but great views for the few minutes we spent there. | |
| Posted Feb 5, 2012 1:55 pm | ||
| WDW4 | Reached 5,600 meters Date Climbed: Jan 5, 2012 | |
| Left from the Refugio around midnight with a large group, started snowing around 4 am, made it to 5,600 around dawn before being turned back by a combo of low visibility and crevasses. | |
| Posted Jan 9, 2012 9:57 am | ||
| lutty11 | Normal Route Date Climbed: Nov 17, 2010 | |
| One of the best days climbing. Fresh/wet/sketchy snow early on, proved to become much more stable as we ascended. Could have used one more acclimation day! | |
| Posted Dec 28, 2011 10:47 pm | ||
| karore | Normal Rute Date Climbed: Jan 4, 2011 | |
| Straight climb but it was cloudy so we didn't get to see much. | ||
| Posted Oct 8, 2011 11:36 am | ||
| noahs213 | Great Date Climbed: Nov 5, 2010 | |
| Straightforward. Final crevasse was not bad but everyone turned around even the American guides. | |
| Posted Nov 7, 2010 4:01 pm | ||
| russmeehan | Normal Route Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2010 | |
| Camped below glacier (no fee). Left at 1:38 am. and made the top at 6:50 am. Had to zig zag through crevasses near top and set up a belay for a steep snow wall (about 1 to 2 body lengths of 90 degrees). A snow stake would be helpful and some wands since most groups turn around below the big crevasse. | |
| Posted Aug 5, 2010 11:06 am | ||
| Epica | One of the best days of my life! Date Climbed: Oct 27, 2008 | |
| Started out around midnight from the refuge, but the lack of acclimatization finally caught up with me and didn't make it to the top. I still loved being on that mountain and will be back one day, with much more time to enjoy! | |
| Posted Sep 22, 2009 12:32 am | ||
| Shirley Lam | Thank goodness... Date Climbed: Jan 29, 2009 | |
| I was still getting over some pretty bad stomach problems, so it was nice that mother nature had a little pity for me and gave us great weather and snow conditions! | |
| Posted Aug 18, 2009 3:25 pm | ||
| bighornmonkey | Awesome conditions Date Climbed: Jan 29, 2009 | |
| Clear/windless night made the summit push a breeze especially since we were well acclimated having climbed Chimborazo and Cotopaxi a few days before. Great view over a sea of cloud from the top. | |
| Posted Feb 2, 2009 5:19 pm | ||
| Bill Kish | Normal Route Date Climbed: Jan 15, 2009 | |
| Wet weather left a lot of new snow on the mountain. We turned around at 5100m due to unstable snow conditions. | |
| Posted Jan 26, 2009 10:46 am | ||
| 0302Explorer | Normal Route Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2008 | |
| After a long, lousy winter here we got lucky and had good conditions under a full moon. With a lot of new snow, we were concerned about conditions. It was a bit soft at the base of the glacier but firmed up quickly and we had nearly perfect conditions. A narrow bridge over a crevasse near the summit presented the only real challenge beyond the altitude - smooth sailing to a frigid summit with fantastic views all the way to Chimborazo. We spent the night at the plateau above the refuge. While we were concerned about leaving our tents and gear, we were alone on the mountain and back in time to beat the first day hikers up to the plateau. | |
| Posted Apr 24, 2008 10:57 pm | ||
| kommish | Normal Route Date Climbed: Jan 16, 2008 | |
| Great views, was a wonderful sunrise. | |
| Posted Jan 31, 2008 6:46 pm | ||
| Hotfeet | Standard route Date Climbed: Jan 19, 2008 | |
| A very long and worthwhiole climb. Beautiful mountain. Very windy. | |
| Posted Jan 21, 2008 8:44 pm | ||
| lefty | Normal Route Date Climbed: Jan 9, 2008 | |
| This was a very enjoyable and relatively easy climb. The slope is much less steep than Cotopaxi, except near the top. It was a clear and windless night with nice snow conditons. We had to downclimb into the Bergshrund near the top and use two tools to climb back out of it on the way down. Some groups managed to get around it on the left side. | |
| Posted Jan 16, 2008 1:16 am | ||
| Boriss Andean | Route Climbed: Normal Route. Date Climbed: Nov 13, 2005 | |
| Edgar and I started climbing up at midnight from the refuge. Ice/snow conditions were good, even though we fell inside a couple of small snow covered cravasses at the base of the summit:-). Summited few minutes after sunrise, The view was great. | |
| Posted Sep 21, 2007 12:55 am | ||
| Bill562 | Cayambe normal route Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2007 | |
| Climbed with Haliku and Axe. This climb was much easier than slogging up Coto in bad weather. Ironically, good weather on Cayambe is much more rare than on Coto. A good boot track was present most of the way. The crux was the 70 deg snow bridge across the bergshrund. This climb made it five for five peaks in Ecuador for our team on this trip. | |
| Posted Jul 13, 2007 5:40 pm | ||
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