Via the standard 'Fred Beckey' route. He might call it 'class 3', but it's a class 4 in my book. Left the Source Lake trail a little bit early, but still found our way. The 'normal' spot to leave the trail (as we discovered on the way out) is at N47 27.555 W121 27.267. The first several hundred feet will be on talus, but if you follow the cairns, you'll eventually find the path leading to the southeast gullies. The base of the 'Fred Beckey' route can be found at N47 27.523 W121 27.908 - just on the off chance you find yourself here in low visibility like we did. Rather than performing the 'awkward chimney move' to get into the gully, climb relatively easy class 3 terrain about 50' to the right, then traverse left into the gully. After a short distance, you will arrive at the split between the 'standard route' and the 'thumb tack face' variation (N47 27.525 W121 27.941). In hindsight, we probably should have taken the variation, which is in all likelihood class 3. The standard 'Fred Beckey' route, while not terrible, is definitely class 4, with crappy loose rock (helmet mandatory). No belays on the way up, but made a 100' rappel on the way down (starting about 100' from the top of the gully). 2hrs 40min up, 2hrs 30min down.
leftfield - Jul 5, 2015 11:13 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2015
Northeast Buttress
Went up on the holiday with my hotshot rock climbing buddies. Three pitches of protected climbing (some minimally)and four rappels. Long,hot hike back out through the holiday day hikers.
geosean - Jan 6, 2015 12:58 pm Date Climbed: Jan 3, 2015
NEB Winter
Simuled the snow/ice between the first pitch and the waterfall. Great route overall. 13 hours total due to slow snow conditions on the approach.
jbtheou - Aug 13, 2013 2:32 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2013
During summer
Very good experience for a first trad climb. Little bit of loose rock but good condition and great view on the top
jacobsmith - Feb 10, 2013 1:54 am Date Climbed: Feb 9, 2013
Chair Peak x2
Climbed the NE buttress, encountering mixed conditions lower down, with weird, rotten ice and neve higher up. never broke out of the cloud layer. made a mistake on the descent and ended up down-climbing and then re-ascending most of the west face. why does this keep happening?
First trip up Chair. Lots of loose rock on the route.
Bluecube22 - Nov 13, 2011 2:40 am Date Climbed: Nov 27, 2011
NE buttress
We made the summit in a total white out but it was a nice and solid ice climb.By the time we returned to the base by a double rope repell the snow fresh snow was waist deep powder it was some of the best powder I ever seen lite and fluffy wish I had skis.
Climbed the North Face and NE Buttress a total of 15 times, 14 in winter. It is a 30 minute drive from house and I climb it every winter, sometime years a couple of times.
Mike N - Jun 6, 2010 11:05 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2010
Left Chimney,SE spur
Had to bail due to wet slabs and melting snow near top of chimney. Very nice climb to that point.
laurel - Jan 9, 2010 3:54 pm Date Climbed: Dec 13, 2009
Really different in winter (obviously). Fortunately not as loose...
setrent - Dec 19, 2009 5:53 am Date Climbed: Feb 4, 2009
NE Buttress
A classic. Easy access, and fun but not scary climbing.
EverydayExplorer - Dec 11, 2009 1:36 am Date Climbed: Dec 10, 2009
North Face
Showed up late, got stuck behind another party and we were moving pretty slow as is. Climbed the first pitch of the North Face which was a blast then bailed. It was the right decision but sucks none the less.
This route in summer was fun, rock was a little loose and I got "off route" (the traverse back to safety was a little harrowing) all in all a nice way to go. Rappelled down the chimeys to finish.
skook - Aug 31, 2009 5:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2009
Yikes
Not the best summer route, going up or down.
Buckaroo - Aug 14, 2009 10:59 pm Date Climbed: Jan 10, 1994
N Face and NE Butress
N Face Solo, very sketchy, thin crust over powder on the top half. N Face rarely comes in very good conditions. NE Buttress usually a lot better because it's on the sunny side so it gets the melt/freeze. Not recommended in summer, climbers have been killed due to choss rock, no good gear. Soloed the NE Buttress a month later and a year later with a friend. 4 attempts before the first summit.
cascadescrambler - Aug 27, 2019 10:40 am Date Climbed: Jul 30, 1977
SE FaceHad an awkward moment when my climbing harness got caught on a shrub as I was trying to get up the overhang
Matt Lemke - Dec 18, 2016 1:01 am Date Climbed: Oct 4, 2015
Via NE RidgeSolod the NE ridge with Amy on a beautiful October day, then we rappelled down the route.
tcingrum - Jul 12, 2015 1:05 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2015
chairBecky rt.
kevinsa - Jul 11, 2015 7:35 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2015
Chair Peak SE routeVia the standard 'Fred Beckey' route. He might call it 'class 3', but it's a class 4 in my book. Left the Source Lake trail a little bit early, but still found our way. The 'normal' spot to leave the trail (as we discovered on the way out) is at N47 27.555 W121 27.267. The first several hundred feet will be on talus, but if you follow the cairns, you'll eventually find the path leading to the southeast gullies. The base of the 'Fred Beckey' route can be found at N47 27.523 W121 27.908 - just on the off chance you find yourself here in low visibility like we did. Rather than performing the 'awkward chimney move' to get into the gully, climb relatively easy class 3 terrain about 50' to the right, then traverse left into the gully. After a short distance, you will arrive at the split between the 'standard route' and the 'thumb tack face' variation (N47 27.525 W121 27.941). In hindsight, we probably should have taken the variation, which is in all likelihood class 3. The standard 'Fred Beckey' route, while not terrible, is definitely class 4, with crappy loose rock (helmet mandatory). No belays on the way up, but made a 100' rappel on the way down (starting about 100' from the top of the gully). 2hrs 40min up, 2hrs 30min down.
leftfield - Jul 5, 2015 11:13 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2015
Northeast ButtressWent up on the holiday with my hotshot rock climbing buddies. Three pitches of protected climbing (some minimally)and four rappels. Long,hot hike back out through the holiday day hikers.
geosean - Jan 6, 2015 12:58 pm Date Climbed: Jan 3, 2015
NEB WinterSimuled the snow/ice between the first pitch and the waterfall. Great route overall. 13 hours total due to slow snow conditions on the approach.
jbtheou - Aug 13, 2013 2:32 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2013
During summerVery good experience for a first trad climb. Little bit of loose rock but good condition and great view on the top
jacobsmith - Feb 10, 2013 1:54 am Date Climbed: Feb 9, 2013
Chair Peak x2Climbed the NE buttress, encountering mixed conditions lower down, with weird, rotten ice and neve higher up. never broke out of the cloud layer. made a mistake on the descent and ended up down-climbing and then re-ascending most of the west face. why does this keep happening?
marieg - Dec 15, 2012 12:11 am
Great climbFun, quick, fast & fun!
telemarkdude - Oct 9, 2012 1:47 am Date Climbed: Oct 19, 1986
SE RouteClimbed the Southeast Route in the Becky guide. Definitely loose chunks of rock.
ccerveny - Jul 21, 2012 6:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2011
West RidgeFirst trip up Chair. Lots of loose rock on the route.
Bluecube22 - Nov 13, 2011 2:40 am Date Climbed: Nov 27, 2011
NE buttressWe made the summit in a total white out but it was a nice and solid ice climb.By the time we returned to the base by a double rope repell the snow fresh snow was waist deep powder it was some of the best powder I ever seen lite and fluffy wish I had skis.
ExcitableBoy - Dec 28, 2010 9:22 am
15 timesClimbed the North Face and NE Buttress a total of 15 times, 14 in winter. It is a 30 minute drive from house and I climb it every winter, sometime years a couple of times.
Mike N - Jun 6, 2010 11:05 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2010
Left Chimney,SE spurHad to bail due to wet slabs and melting snow near top of chimney. Very nice climb to that point.
laurel - Jan 9, 2010 3:54 pm Date Climbed: Dec 13, 2009
back in the wintervia NE Buttress
http://www.mountainsquirrel.com/2010/01/08/chair-peak-december-13/
Really different in winter (obviously). Fortunately not as loose...
setrent - Dec 19, 2009 5:53 am Date Climbed: Feb 4, 2009
NE ButtressA classic. Easy access, and fun but not scary climbing.
EverydayExplorer - Dec 11, 2009 1:36 am Date Climbed: Dec 10, 2009
North FaceShowed up late, got stuck behind another party and we were moving pretty slow as is. Climbed the first pitch of the North Face which was a blast then bailed. It was the right decision but sucks none the less.
Darren9 - Nov 7, 2009 2:33 am
NE ButtressThis route in summer was fun, rock was a little loose and I got "off route" (the traverse back to safety was a little harrowing) all in all a nice way to go. Rappelled down the chimeys to finish.
skook - Aug 31, 2009 5:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2009
YikesNot the best summer route, going up or down.
Buckaroo - Aug 14, 2009 10:59 pm Date Climbed: Jan 10, 1994
N Face and NE ButressN Face Solo, very sketchy, thin crust over powder on the top half. N Face rarely comes in very good conditions. NE Buttress usually a lot better because it's on the sunny side so it gets the melt/freeze. Not recommended in summer, climbers have been killed due to choss rock, no good gear. Soloed the NE Buttress a month later and a year later with a friend. 4 attempts before the first summit.